Old Town Buzet

Old Town Buzet stands on a hill above the valley of the Mirna river in northern Istria, in Croatia, and it is one of the most attractive medieval towns in the region. Known as the City of Truffles, Buzet is famous for the white truffles found in the forests of the Mirna valley, and its old town, a compact ring of stone houses and lanes within walls, makes a good place to combine history with a meal.

The truffle is the best-known side of the town. In autumn, the white truffle season, Buzet celebrates with a festival called Subotina, which draws visitors for markets, tastings and truffle-hunting excursions with trained dogs, and restaurants serve truffle pasta, risotto and omelettes. The forests along the Mirna, some of the best truffle ground in Europe, have given the area an international reputation, and the town has made the most of it with shops, guides and events. Even outside the season, you can find truffle products in the shops, along with olive oil, wine and local honey.

Wandering the old town, on the hilltop, is a pleasure. The usual entrance is the Large Gate, Vela Vrata, a stone gate built in the sixteenth century and decorated with a relief of St. George, the patron saint of the town. Beyond it, winding streets are lined with Renaissance palaces, among them the Bembo Palace and the De Vertiis Palace, which still carry the coats of arms of local noble families. Buzet was a Venetian possession for several centuries, and the buildings reflect this, with the stone doorways, arched windows and small piazzas familiar from other Venetian towns. Fortifications, including the South Bulwark and the Renaissance Tower, remind visitors of the town’s defensive importance, since Buzet stood near the border between Venetian and Habsburg territory.

Several buildings deserve a visit. The Parish Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, completed in the late eighteenth century, has a treasury and historic organs, and the Regional Museum in the Bigatto Palace tells the story of the area’s archaeology, ethnography and history. Notable also are the Venice Storehouse, the Lapidarium with carved stones, and the Parish Palace, which add to the architectural variety. The viewpoint at the edge of the town gives sweeping views over the Mirna valley and the hills of Istria, and on clear days you can see the Učka mountain and the Slovenian Alps.

Buzet’s old town is open to all at any time, and there are no entrance charges to walk through it. With its compact lanes, the old town is easy to cover on foot, and local restaurants offer hearty Istrian dishes, and the atmosphere is calm. Buzet is also a stop on the Glagolitic Alley, the route of monuments to the old Slavic script. The town suits history enthusiasts, food lovers and photographers, and the best time to visit is autumn for truffles or spring for blossom.