Hvar

Hvar’s story begins in the 4th century BCE, when Greek settlers founded the colony of Pharos, now Stari Grad. Over the centuries the island flourished under Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian rule, each leaving a mark on its architecture and culture. Hvar Town, with its marble-paved main square, Renaissance cathedral and the imposing Fortica Fortress, is the island’s cultural and social center. The fortress, also called the Spanish Fortress, sits above the town and offers wide views of the harbor and the Pakleni Islands, a cluster of pine-scented islets good for day trips, swimming and snorkeling. In the town, the Hvar Art Gallery in the historic center shows works by local and Croatian artists, and the Hvar Town Theatre, in the old arsenal, dates from 1612 and is often cited as one of the oldest community theatres in Europe.

The island is renowned for its beaches and coves, many accessible only by boat or hiking trails. Notable spots include Dubovica Beach, Pokonji Dol and the turquoise bays of the Pakleni Islands. Stiniva Beach, on the nearby island of Vis, is a popular excursion for those who want dramatic scenery and clear water, since it lies at the end of a narrow gap between high cliffs. Hvar’s coastline is also dotted with lively beach bars, stylish clubs and waterfront restaurants, which makes it a favorite for partygoers and families alike. For quieter days, early mornings and late afternoons are best on the beaches, and the islands off Hvar Town are much calmer on weekdays.

Beyond the coast, Hvar’s interior is a patchwork of lavender fields, olive groves and vineyards. In June and early July the lavender is in bloom, and the scent drifts over the hills, and many families distil the oil and sell it in small bottles. The villages of Stari Grad, Jelsa and Vrboska offer a slower pace, with stone houses, narrow alleys and traditional konobas serving local wines and Dalmatian specialties. The Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, preserves the ancient Greek system of land division and is a lasting sign of the island’s farming heritage. The old field walls and small stone shelters are still used by farmers, and walks and bicycle rides along the plain are easy and rewarding.

Hvar is also a good island for outdoor enthusiasts. Hiking and cycling trails crisscross the island, leading to hilltop viewpoints, abandoned hamlets and hidden beaches. Kayaking, sailing and diving are popular activities, with equipment rentals and guided tours available in Hvar Town and other resorts. Wine tasting, farm-to-table meals and lavender tours give a taste of the island’s rural traditions. Plavac Mali, a strong red grape, is grown on steep southern slopes, and the white Bogdanuša is a local variety.

Getting to Hvar is straightforward. Regular ferries and catamarans connect the island to Split, Dubrovnik and other Adriatic ports, with Hvar Town and Stari Grad serving as the main entry points. Local buses, taxis and scooter rentals make it easy to explore the island. Accommodation ranges from luxury hotels and boutique guesthouses to private apartments and campsites, catering to all budgets and preferences.

The best time to visit Hvar is from June to September, when the weather is hot, the sea is warm and the island’s beaches, nightlife and festivals are in full swing. July and August are the busiest months, with lively events and a cosmopolitan crowd, while late spring and early autumn offer milder temperatures and a more relaxed atmosphere. Whether you seek sun, history or adventure, Hvar offers a memorable Croatian island stay.