13th-century Bishop’s Fortress (Remains)

Čazma is a small town in Bjelovar-Bilogora County, on the Česma river in the lowlands east of Zagreb, and it has an unusually important place in medieval Croatian history. The site of the Bishop's Fortress lies under the modern town, and its remains tell the story of a time when Čazma was an ecclesiastical centre of the kingdom, the seat of a chapter of canons and a residence of the bishops of Zagreb. Little of this is visible on the surface today, but the archaeology beneath the streets makes the town more interesting than its quiet appearance suggests.

The medieval town developed in the thirteenth century, and tradition connects its early growth with Bishop Stjepan Babonić of Zagreb, who established an organised parish and a chapter here and built a fortified residence. Church lands in Slavonia and Croatia were often governed with some independence from royal authority, and the bishops used their castles as centres of administration, justice and defence, as well as comfortable homes. The fortress at Čazma was one of them, and it became the focal point of the settlement, around which the church, the houses of the canons and the market grew. The town was also close to the borderlands of the Ottoman wars in later centuries, and fortified bishops' residences were strengthened and, in the Renaissance period, rebuilt.

Archaeological work in the area of the local museum has uncovered walls and objects from the medieval period, including pottery and pieces of jewellery, which suggest that the fortress was substantial and that the settlement around it was prosperous. These finds push the story of the site further back than had been assumed and show the importance of Čazma in the thirteenth century. At present, the remains are generally not open to the public, and the museum is documenting and conserving them, with plans for future exhibitions.

So what can a visitor do? The best approach is to treat Čazma as a small historical town and to look for the traces of its medieval past in its layout and its buildings. The impressive parish church, with its roots in the medieval chapter, and the streets around it follow the old pattern, and a walk along the river gives a sense of the landscape that the bishops chose. The museum may be able to offer information about the excavations and what is currently on display. Opening hours are limited, so check before you travel.

Čazma is about an hour from Zagreb by car and can be combined with other places in the Bilogora region. The site suits people with a particular interest in medieval history and archaeology and visitors who like to explore small towns off the main routes. Allow an hour in town, including the church and the museum.