Aquae Vivae

Aquae Vivae is a modern thermal water park and wellness centre in Krapinske Toplice, a small spa town in Hrvatsko Zagorje, in Krapina-Zagorje County, about an hour's drive north of Zagreb. The name is Latin and means living waters, a reference to the warm springs that rise in the area and that have drawn people to the valley for centuries. The town is built around its springs and its rehabilitation hospital, and the water park is the part of it that is aimed at visitors who come for leisure rather than treatment.

The thermal waters of Krapinske Toplice have been used since ancient times, and the area developed into an organised spa in the eighteenth century, when bathhouses and a hospital were built, and it became known for the treatment of rheumatic complaints and for recovery after injury. The water emerges naturally warm and is mildly mineralised, and it is still the basis of the town's medical and wellness offer. The park carries this tradition forward in a modern setting, with architecture and facilities that are quite different from the historic buildings of the old spa.

At the centre, visitors find a series of indoor and outdoor pools filled with thermal water at different temperatures. There are lap lanes for swimming, shallow recreational pools, children's areas with slides and play features and quieter pools where you can float in warm water. The facility is open year-round, which is part of its appeal in a region with cold winters: a swim in warm water under a grey sky, with steam rising, is a distinct pleasure. Wellness services typically include saunas, steam rooms, massages and relaxation areas, and some programmes are aimed at families or couples. Prices and opening times vary by season, and it is wise to check before you go, particularly at weekends and during holidays, when the park can be crowded.

The surroundings add to a weekend away. Hrvatsko Zagorje is a region of rolling hills, castles, vineyards and small churches, and the area around Krapinske Toplice is quiet and green. The Neanderthal museum at Krapina, the castle of Veliki Tabor and the pilgrimage site of Marija Bistrica are all within a short drive. Local restaurants serve the hearty cooking of the region, including turkey with mlinci and the cheese pastry štrukli. A helicopter centre is listed in this guide as a nearby leisure option.

Bring a swimsuit, a towel and flip-flops, and a robe if you intend to use the saunas. Shower before entering the pools, and follow the rules about hygiene and caps. The park suits families, couples and anyone who needs to relax. Allow two to four hours, or a full day with a meal.