Bjelolasica Mountain

Bjelolasica is a mountain in Gorski Kotar, the forested highland between Zagreb and Rijeka, and at 1,534 metres it is the highest peak of the Velika Kapela range and of Gorski Kotar as a whole. It is sometimes loosely described as one of the highest points in the country, but the highest peak in Croatia is Dinara in the south, so Bjelolasica is best understood as the summit of the northwest highlands. It rises above the village of Begovo Razdolje, which lies at roughly 1,000 metres and is counted among the highest inhabited places in Croatia, a small community whose life has long been shaped by forestry, sheep farming and long winters.

The landscape is the main attraction. Bjelolasica is surrounded by one of the largest continuous forest complexes in Europe, with beech and fir woods that stretch for many kilometres in every direction. These forests are home to large carnivores that are rare elsewhere on the continent, including brown bears, lynx, wolves and wildcats, though you are far more likely to see tracks than animals. The area is thinly populated, and walkers can enjoy a rare sense of solitude, even in summer. The air is cool, the nights are cold, and the weather can change quickly, with fog, storms and early snow, so it is wise to be well equipped.

Marked trails lead through the forest and alpine meadows toward the summit, with a mix of steady climbs and gentler sections. From the top, on a clear day, the view takes in the forested ridges of Gorski Kotar, the Kapela range and, far to the west, the sea. Nearby rock formations, such as the Bijele stijene and Samarske stijene, are popular walking destinations in the same area. The Bjelolasica Olympic training centre, built to prepare athletes for winter sports, adds a sporting side to the village, and in winter the slopes offer skiing and cross-country skiing.

Other activities are on offer. Horseback riding with guided trails is available, and the nearby rivers allow rafting and canoeing in the right season. Begovo Razdolje has guesthouses, local guides and basic services, and it is the best base for exploring. The road to the village is paved, and from there forest roads and trails lead to trailheads and activity centres.

The mountain suits hikers, nature lovers, families seeking cool summer air and eco-tourists. Bring warm layers, rain gear, water and a map, and check the weather before setting out.