FKK Kandarola Beach

Kandarola is a naturist beach on the Frkanj peninsula, a pine-covered headland just north of the town of Rab, on the island of the same name in the Kvarner archipelago. The word FKK stands for Freikörperkultur, a German term for free body culture that is used all over the Adriatic coast for places where clothing is optional. Kandarola is one of the best-known of them, and its fame rests partly on a story that has been told since the 1930s: in the summer of 1936, King Edward VIII of Britain, who was cruising the Adriatic with Wallis Simpson, is reported to have swum here without clothes, a visit that drew the attention of the world press and helped to make Rab a naturist destination. Whatever the exact details, the beach is claimed as one of the oldest naturist beaches in Europe.

The setting is attractive. Frkanj is a wooded peninsula, where Aleppo pines and holm oaks reach almost to the sea, and the shore is a mix of smooth rock slabs and pebbles, with clear, deep water. The peninsula is sheltered from the cold north wind, the bora, by the ridges of the island, and the Velebit mountains lie across the channel on the mainland, so the scenery is a mixture of dark forest, blue sea and grey limestone peaks. The scent of pine and the sound of cicadas fill the air in summer. The beach is not large and is usually not crowded, which contributes to the relaxed, private atmosphere.

Facilities include sunbeds and umbrellas for rent, a beach bar offering food and drinks, and basic services such as showers and toilets, all run in a low-key manner that preserves the natural character of the place. The people who use it are from many countries, and the culture is one of respect and discretion, with the rules typical of naturist beaches: no staring, no photography of other people, and towels to sit on. Newcomers are welcome, and no one is expected to take their clothes off if they do not want to, though the general norm is naturism. The season runs through the summer months, and the opening arrangements are not fixed, so it is best to check ahead.

Rab has other beaches and sights that can be combined with a visit. The sandy beaches at Lopar, Suha Punta and the old town of Rab, with its four bell towers and the Tower of St. Christopher, which are listed in this guide, are within reach. The town has a medieval centre of stone lanes on a narrow promontory, and boat trips run along the coast.

Bring sun protection, water, a hat and a mat or towel, since the rocks are hard. The beach suits naturists, curious visitors and those who want a quiet swim in pine-shaded surroundings. Allow half a day.