Grabovača Cave Park

Grabovača Cave Park is a protected area in Lika, a short distance from the town of Perušić, which is close to the main motorway between Zagreb and Split, and it is a very easy stop for people travelling between the capital and the coast. The park lies on a limestone plateau at an altitude of about 770 metres, in a landscape of forest, meadow and scattered rocks, and it protects a group of caves and pits that make up one of the most interesting underground systems in the region. For a break from driving, it is a good way to see karst scenery from the inside.

The best-known cave is Samograd, which is open to visitors and is one of the oldest tourist caves in Croatia, since people have been visiting it since the nineteenth century, when Austrian officers and other travellers came to see it. The entrance is a wide opening like the door of a cathedral, and inside there is a large chamber with a high ceiling. The temperature is constant and cool, around eight degrees, so a jacket is needed even in summer. Guided tours lead through the chamber, pointing out stalactites hanging from the ceiling and stalagmites rising from the floor, and explaining how water dripping through limestone over many thousands of years created them. The guides also tell stories about the history of the cave and the people who visited it.

Beyond Samograd, the park protects several other caves and a pit, and the range of rock formations and mineral deposits illustrates the long geological history of the area. The caves are also homes to wildlife, especially bats, which roost in the darkness, and the park is a protected habitat for them and for other cave-dwelling creatures. Outside the caves, educational trails and workshops explain the ecology of the plateau, and activities such as archery and paintball are offered, which makes the park attractive for families and school groups. It is advisable to ask about current programmes and prices when you arrive or on the park's website, since offers change with the season.

The cave air is clean and cool and is said by some to have a beneficial effect on breathing, similar to the air in a salt room, though it is best to treat such claims with caution. The setting outside is pleasant, with views over the nearby valley of the Lika river.

Wear sturdy shoes with good grip, since cave floors can be wet and slippery, and bring a warm layer. Tours are usually timed, so check the schedule. The park suits families, geology fans and travellers on a long drive who want to stretch their legs. Allow one to two hours.