Griffin Winery

Jastrebarsko is a small town south-west of Zagreb, at the foot of the Plešivica hills, and it is the gateway to one of Croatia's most appealing wine regions. The Plešivica wine road, one of the Croatian wine roads, winds through vineyards on steep slopes, with small family estates, tasting rooms and old wine cottages, known as zidanice, scattered among the vines. The region is best known for sparkling wines made by the traditional method, as well as fresh, aromatic still whites, and it lies only about half an hour from the capital, which makes it a favourite day trip.

Griffin Winery belongs to this world of small, family-run producers. The vineyards lie high on the slopes, at heights where the grapes catch plenty of sun and cool air from the hills, a combination that keeps the acidity bright and gives wines their freshness. Plešivica's soils are a mix of clay, marl and limestone, and its climate is continental, with warm summers and cold winters, which suits grapes such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and the local variety Plavec Žuti. Winemakers in the region combine long family traditions with modern techniques, and visitors often notice the care taken with each bottle.

A visit usually starts with a walk through the vineyard or a look at the cellar, where the winemaker explains how the grapes are picked, pressed and aged. This is followed by a tasting of still and sparkling wines, often accompanied by a simple meal of local cheese, cured meat and bread. Many cellars have terraces with wide views over the vineyards and hills, and a glass of sparkling wine in the late afternoon sun is a pleasure in itself. Visits are best arranged in advance, because small wineries work by appointment, and group sizes and times vary. Ask about prices, the number of wines in the tasting and whether food is included.

The surrounding area has places to combine with a tasting. Jastrebarsko has Erdödy Castle, a historic manor in the town, and the nearby Castle Zwilling, and the Žitnica Mountain Lodge is a base for walks in the hills. The Plešivica wine road itself offers a range of other estates and restaurants, and the Žumberak hills beyond are good for hiking.

Drive carefully on the narrow, winding roads, and arrange a driver or taxi if you plan to taste widely. The winery suits wine lovers, couples and small groups, and spring and early autumn are especially pleasant.