Lake Lepenica

Lake Lepenica is the largest of the lakes at Fužine, a small town in Gorski kotar, the forested mountain region of western Croatia between Zagreb and the Adriatic. It is an artificial lake, created by damming a stream in the twentieth century as part of a hydroelectric scheme, but the water has long since settled into the landscape and the shores are now a place for swimming, fishing and walking.

Fužine sits at an altitude of about seven hundred metres, on the high ground that separates the Adriatic coast from inland Croatia, and its climate is cooler than that of the coast. Summers are mild, winters are cold and snowy, and the surrounding hills are covered with fir and beech forest. The three lakes, Lepenica, Bajer and Potkoš, form a chain close to the town, and together they give the place a lakeland character that is unusual in this part of the country. Lepenica is the biggest, and its shore is the most popular for bathing, and in summer the water warms enough to make swimming pleasant, with temperatures reaching the low twenties Celsius, with a depth of about twenty metres in the deepest part.

Lepenica’s fish make the lake well known to anglers, who come to fish in the stocked and natural waters, and fishing competitions are held there. A more unusual event is underwater orienteering, a sport in which divers navigate a course beneath the surface, and the lake is sometimes used for competitions of this kind. For walkers, a footpath runs around the shore and links Lepenica with Lake Bajer, and the circuit is easy and shaded, suitable for families and for jogging. Benches at several points allow a pause, and views of the wooded slopes across the water are good in all seasons.

The surroundings have more to offer. A viewpoint above Lepenica, known simply as the View of Lake Lepenica, gives a wider picture of the water and the forest, and a plaque near the lake commemorates the First World War in this area, a reminder of the military history of the region. The cave known as Vrelo, the railway line from Zagreb to Rijeka and the trails of Risnjak National Park are within reach of the town, so a day on the lake can be part of a longer mountain trip.

The lake suits families, anglers and walkers, and it is best in summer for swimming and in autumn for walks among colouring leaves. Facilities are simple, so bring water, sun protection and a towel, and expect cool evenings even in July.