Mandrać

Mandrać is the small, sheltered harbour in Volosko, Croatia, the old fishing village at the northern end of Opatija. The word mandrać, found along the Adriatic coast, describes a little inner port where fishing boats can be pulled up and kept safe from the weather, and this one is the centre of village life. A ring of tall houses in warm colours encloses the basin, and the water is full of wooden boats that belong to local fishermen and families.

Volosko was a separate settlement long before Opatija became a fashionable resort in the 19th century, and it was once a busy port with shipping and trade. When the villas and hotels of Opatija rose along the shore to the south, Volosko stayed a quieter place, and its narrow lanes, stairways and Mediterranean stone houses still keep the feel of an older Kvarner fishing village. The steep streets climb from the harbour up the hill, with small courtyards and washing lines, and the contrast with the grander seaside architecture of Opatija is striking.

Today Mandrać is best known for its food and its evenings. Volosko has built a reputation for good restaurants, and several of them look out on the water, serving fresh fish, shellfish and Kvarner dishes. Tables spill onto the quay in summer, and the sea is only a step away. Klapa groups, the traditional Croatian a cappella singers, and small jazz concerts are sometimes held here, and the setting suits them well. A few small galleries and shops add to the village mood. One local figure with an international reputation is Andrija Mohorovičić, the seismologist who discovered the boundary between the earth's crust and mantle that bears his name, and who was born in Volosko; the Birthplace of Andrija Mohorovičić is a short walk from the harbour.

The Lungomare, the seaside promenade that links Volosko with Opatija and runs on along the coast toward Lovran, passes right by Mandrać, so it is simple to include on a walk. A stroll from central Opatija to Volosko takes a pleasant stretch of the path, and there are buses and taxis if you prefer.

Mandrać suits food lovers, couples and walkers who like a small harbour with a real working life. Go for a late afternoon walk and stay for dinner, as the light on the water is at its best at dusk.