National Park Risnjak

Risnjak National Park lies in Gorski Kotar, the wooded mountain region of northwest Croatia, near the village of Crni Lug, and it is one of the country's most rewarding protected areas for walkers who like forest, quiet and wildlife. The park covers about sixty-three square kilometres and protects the Risnjak and Snježnik massifs, where the Alpine and Dinaric mountain systems meet, together with the source area of the Kupa river. Risnjak itself, the highest peak, rises to about 1,528 metres, and from the top, on a clear day, the view extends over the forested ridges of Gorski Kotar, the valleys below and, in the distance, the Adriatic and the Alps. The park was set aside for protection in the middle of the 20th century and became a national park in 1953, but botanists and mountaineers have studied and visited the area since the 19th century.

The park takes its name from the lynx, called ris in Croatian, the elusive wild cat that still lives in its dense forests. Lynx are shy and rarely seen, but their presence is a sign of the health of the ecosystem. Brown bears, wolves, deer, wild boar and many birds, including owls, woodpeckers and capercaillie, share the woodland, and the forest is made up mostly of beech and fir, with spruce at higher levels and meadows rich in wild flowers. Because of its position, the flora is diverse, with plants from both mountain systems, and spring and early summer are especially colourful. The area is damp, with heavy rain and snow, and the winters are long and cold.

The park's visitor centre and administration are in Crni Lug, which makes it a convenient place to begin. A network of marked trails offers routes for different abilities. The most popular is the Leska Educational Path, a circular walk of about four kilometres, with information boards that introduce the park's natural and cultural heritage, and it is a good choice for families and for those with limited time. More demanding trails lead to the summit of Veliki Risnjak and to mountain huts, and they require good fitness, sturdy boots and a check of the weather. The source of the Kupa, a powerful spring that emerges from a deep, clear pool at the foot of the mountain, is another highlight, and it is reached by a short walk.

The park is easy to reach from the motorway between Zagreb and Rijeka, with an exit at Delnice, and it makes a rewarding day trip from either city or a stop on the way to the coast. Bring warm clothes, water and a map, since the weather can change quickly, and keep to the paths. Fees apply for entry, and details are available from the visitor centre.

The park suits hikers, nature lovers, families and wildlife enthusiasts. The best seasons are late spring and early autumn, and early morning offers the best chance of wildlife.