Old Well and Ruins in the Forest

The wooded slopes above Mošćenička Draga, on the eastern coast of Istria above the Adriatic, are full of traces of the villages and farms that once covered them. For centuries the hillsides between the sea and the hilltop town of Mošćenice were cultivated: terraces of vines and olives, small fields, pastures and clusters of stone houses. In the 20th century many families left for the coast or for cities, and the land was gradually reclaimed by forest, so that today you can walk in woods and suddenly come upon a wall, a threshold or a well that tells of a vanished way of life. The Old Well and Ruins in the Forest is one of these places.

The well is a typical piece of traditional Istrian and Kvarner water management. In a region of porous limestone, where rainwater sinks quickly into the ground, communities built stone cisterns and wells to collect and store water for people and animals. A well of this kind, called a Šterna in Croatian, is a stone-lined shaft, often with a carved rim and a covered basin, and in many villages it was the centre of daily life, a place where people met to draw water, wash and exchange news. Close by, the ruins of stone houses and outbuildings, their roofs gone and their walls overgrown with ivy and moss, show how the settlement was laid out.

The walk to the site is part of the experience. Marked trails lead from Mošćenička Draga, or down from the old town of Mošćenice, through woods of oak, hornbeam and chestnut, and along the way the sea appears now and then through gaps in the trees. The paths are partly stony and steep, so shoes with good grip are essential, and it is wise to carry water, a map and a phone with a charged battery. In spring the woods are full of wildflowers, in autumn the leaves turn gold and copper, and in the cool mornings the air is fresh and full of birdsong. Wildlife includes deer, wild boar and many birds, and walkers should keep to the paths and respect the quiet.

The ruins are free to visit and have no opening hours, though there is no staff or signage, so a visit works best as part of a longer walk. The Lungo Mare, the Trebisca Water Mill and the town of Mošćenička Draga itself offer other things to see in the same area.

The site suits walkers, photographers and anyone who likes places with a story. Treat the ruins with care and do not climb on fragile walls.