Baroque Church of Saint Mary of the Snow

The Church of St. Mary of the Snow in Kutina is the most richly decorated church in the Moslavina region, a hilly area of central Croatia east of Zagreb, and it is an unexpected piece of high Baroque art in a small industrial town. Kutina is better known for its fertiliser factory and its position on the main road and railway than for monuments, but the church is a reminder that this was once a land of noble estates, and that families such as the Erdődys, who owned much of the area, paid for splendid religious buildings. For visitors who like church art, it is a very rewarding stop.

The church was built over several decades in the middle of the eighteenth century, with construction running roughly from the late 1720s to the end of the 1760s, thanks to the patronage of a count of the Erdődy family and his wife, who were among the most powerful nobles of the Croatian lands. It follows the typical plan of a Baroque pilgrimage church, with a single wide nave, side chapels and a tall bell tower, and its facade is elegant and measured. It is dedicated to Our Lady of the Snow, a title that recalls a legend of a miraculous summer snowfall on a Roman hill that showed where a church should be built, and which is celebrated in the church calendar in early August.

The interior is what makes the church memorable. The walls and vaults are covered with stucco ornaments, frescoes and painted decoration in the exuberant style of the Central European Baroque, and the main altar, made of carved and gilded wood, is a monumental piece of workmanship, with columns, statues and an altarpiece that draw the eye toward the sanctuary. The pulpit, from the mid-century, is equally ornate, and the motifs of the sculptural decoration, with scrolls and flowers, refer to themes in the story of Mary and the legend of the snow. Artists from Austria and the neighbouring regions worked on the paintings and carvings, and the result is a coherent artistic ensemble that is rare in this part of the country.

The acoustics are excellent, and the church is used for classical music concerts, which take full advantage of the resonant space. Check the schedule if you would like to hear one. Outside concert times, opening hours depend on services, so you may need to ask locally, and visitors should dress modestly and be quiet.

The church is close to other sights in Kutina, including the gallery of the Moslavina Museum and the cultural centre, Dom kulture, both listed in this guide. Beyond the town, the Moslavina hills offer walking trails and medieval ruins. Allow thirty minutes for the church. It suits lovers of art and music, and anyone interested in the noble heritage of Moslavina.