Beach Kamenjak

Cape Kamenjak is the southernmost tip of the Istrian peninsula, a low, rocky headland reaching into the Adriatic Sea south of the village of Premantura, near Medulin. It is a protected area, classed as a significant landscape, and it is the nearest thing on the Croatian coast of Istria to a wilderness: no hotels, no promenades, few buildings, only limestone, scrub, pine and sea. The coast around the cape is cut into dozens of small coves, and the beaches here are not one stretch of sand but a succession of rocky platforms, pebbly inlets and sheltered bays that each have their own character.

The landscape is the main attraction. Pale limestone shelves slope into the water, forming natural platforms where people lie in the sun and step straight into deep, clear sea, and between them lie coves with pebbles, rocks and small patches of sand. The water is very clean, turquoise over the pale stone, and it deepens quickly, so snorkelling is rewarding, with fish and sea urchins close to the rocks. The rocky bottom means that water shoes are strongly recommended, since sea urchins are common and the stones can be sharp. Some of the cliffs offer jumping spots, and young people often take advantage, but it is important to check the depth and avoid jumping where the water is shallow or the rocks are close.

Inland, the peninsula is a mosaic of Mediterranean scrub, meadows and small pine woods, and it is known for its wild plants, especially in spring, when many species of orchids and other flowers bloom. Paths and gravel tracks cross the area, so it is a good place for cycling and walking, and many visitors hire bicycles in Premantura to explore without a car. There are only a few places that offer drinks or food, among them a famous bar tucked into the scrub that has become a landmark in itself, so it is wise to bring water and snacks. Shade is limited, so a hat and sun cream are essential.

Access is managed. Cars pay an entry fee in the main season, while pedestrians and cyclists generally enter freely, and speed limits and rules are set to protect the environment. The fee helps to fund maintenance, and in July and August the park can be busy, so go early or in June or September for a more peaceful visit. Nearby are Debeljak Cove, Skrape Beach and the Parco Archeologico Vizula in Medulin, as well as sandy beaches in Medulin itself.

The cape suits cyclists, swimmers, snorkellers and anyone who prefers wild coastline to organised beaches. Take everything you need, and take your rubbish with you.