Debeljak Cove

Debeljak Cove is a small coastal inlet on the shore near Medulin, a resort town on the southern tip of the Istrian peninsula. Medulin is known for its long, sheltered bay, shallow water and a string of campsites and hotels along the coast, but there are also many quieter coves, and this is one of them. Very little has been published about it, and that obscurity is part of what attracts people who prefer to swim away from the crowds. The cove has no admission fee, no entrance gate and no regular facilities, so what you find is the plain meeting of rock and sea.

The coast in this area is made of Istrian limestone, a pale, hard rock that breaks into flat slabs and ledges at the water's edge. In many places, the shore is rocky with a few patches of small pebbles, and the sea floor drops away gently over smooth stone. The water is clear and in summer very warm, and visibility is good for snorkelling. Behind the shore is typically a fringe of scrub and pine woodland, where cicadas sing loudly in the heat. The setting is simple and unspoiled, and there is a feeling of being alone with the sea, which is rare in a busy tourist region.

Because there are no facilities, you need to be self-sufficient. Bring water, food, sun protection and a hat, and take a towel or mat, since rock can be hot and hard. Water shoes are very useful for entering the sea over rock and for avoiding sea urchins, which are common on rocky coasts. Take away all your rubbish. There is no lifeguard, so be careful when swimming, particularly with children, and avoid jumping from the rocks without knowing the depth.

The surrounding area offers a lot to see on land and sea. The Vižula archaeological park, listed in this guide, preserves the remains of a Roman villa and a medieval settlement on a headland and has fine sea views. Premantura and the Kamenjak nature park, a wild peninsula with rocky coves and cliffs, lie nearby, and the beaches of Medulin include some sandy stretches, which are unusual in Istria and good for children. Skrape beach is another option.

Early morning and late evening are the best times for a visit, when the light is soft and the temperature mild. The cove suits independent swimmers, snorkellers and anyone looking for a quiet spot. Check access by asking locally, and respect private property and any signs on the path. Allow an hour or two.