BOR bar

BOR bar is a small café and bar in Samobor, Croatia, the old market town in the hills west of Zagreb. It sits beside the Gradna, the little river that runs through the centre of town, and the water is the first thing that shapes the setting: tables and seats face the stream, and in warm weather the terrace is one of the pleasanter spots in Samobor to sit with a drink.

The place is known for two things. By day it is a coffee bar that takes its coffee seriously, with a specialty-style selection beyond the usual espresso and cappuccino, which is the kind of menu that has been spreading through Croatian towns in recent years. In the evening the focus moves to craft beer, with a changing choice of local and regional labels that gives it a younger crowd than the old-fashioned cafés on the main square. Visitors and residents describe it as one of the livelier places in Samobor after dark, though in a town of this size that means a relaxed evening, not a late-night scene. Dogs are generally welcome, and the service has a reputation for being quick and friendly.

Samobor itself gives plenty of reasons to stop here. The town is a favourite day trip from the capital, and its centre is a compact set of pastel-coloured façades around the main square, with pastry shops famous for the cream cake called kremšnita and a long tradition of making mustard and a spiced wine known as bermet. Above the town lie the ruins of Samobor Castle, reached by a short climb along a wooded path, and beyond that the Samobor hills, a favourite area for walks and for small family-run restaurants. Walking from the castle back down to the river is an easy way to earn a coffee or a beer at the end of a visit.

The bar is best treated as a pleasant pause in a day in Samobor rather than a destination of its own. Late afternoon and early evening are the nicest times, when the light drops over the water and the town’s terraces fill with people. It suits couples, friends meeting after a hike, and anyone travelling with a dog who wants a place that will not mind. Opening hours change with the season and the weather, as is common for riverside terraces, so check locally before planning a visit around it.