Samobor Castle

Samobor Castle, known locally as Stari Grad, the Old Town, is the ruin of a medieval fortress on a wooded hill above Samobor, the pleasant town in the foothills of Žumberak, about twenty-five kilometres west of Zagreb. It is one of Croatia’s most atmospheric ruins in the north, and the walk up through the trees makes it a favourite outing for people from the capital.

The castle was founded in the thirteenth century by the Czech King Ottokar II, who controlled large territories across Central Europe and built strongholds to guard the routes between the Pannonian plain and the Adriatic coast. The site, on a spur with commanding views, controlled the road that ran along the foot of the hill, and Samobor developed below it as a market settlement. After Ottokar’s death the castle passed through a succession of Hungarian and Croatian noble families, who altered and extended it over the centuries. It was an important regional centre until the eighteenth century, when it was abandoned for more comfortable residences in the town and began to decay.

Today what remains is a picturesque complex of walls, towers and arches in grey stone, softened by ivy and trees. The remaining sections give an idea of the scale of the original building, with a main tower, a gate, a courtyard and fragments of residential quarters, and the setting gives them an air of mystery. The ruins are open for exploration, with paths that lead through the main sections and to viewpoints where you can look over the town’s roofs and the green hills of Samoborsko Gorje. Take care on uneven steps and near drops, and keep children close.

The walk from the town takes about twenty to thirty minutes along a signed path through woodland, steep in places but manageable for most people, and many families make a picnic of it. Legends of hidden treasure and noble intrigue give the ruins a romantic edge, and the golden light of late afternoon is particularly beautiful on the stone. The site has no admission fees or fixed opening hours, and a visit takes one to two hours including the walk.

Down in Samobor, you can complete the day with the town’s famous specialities, including the cream cake known as kremšnita and the local mustard, and a drink at BOR bar by the river. The town’s lively carnival in February is among the best in the country. Samobor is an easy half-day or full-day trip from Zagreb, reached by bus or car.

The castle suits walkers, history lovers, families and photographers. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water and check the weather, since paths can be slippery after rain.