Chapel of Klupci

Sveti Križ Začretje is a small town in Hrvatsko Zagorje, in the hills north of Zagreb, and the landscape around it is typical of this corner of Croatia: gentle slopes covered with vineyards, orchards and woods, scattered hamlets of timber-framed houses and, on almost every rise, a small church or chapel. The Chapel of Klupci is one of these, a modest place of prayer in a rural setting, and it belongs to a tradition that is central to Zagorje's cultural landscape.

Chapels like this were built by village communities, often with the help of local landowners, as places of devotion close to where people lived and worked. Each hamlet might have its own, dedicated to a saint who was believed to protect the fields, the vines or the household, and the annual feast day of that saint brought neighbours together for Mass, a procession and a shared meal. Many Zagorje chapels stand in vineyards or on hilltops, with a view over the countryside, and they are usually small, whitewashed buildings with a single nave, a modest bell tower and a pitched roof. Information about this particular chapel's history and interior is limited, so it is best to see it as a quiet local landmark rather than as a monument with a recorded history, and to enjoy the setting.

The setting is the main attraction. Walking among the vines and orchards in spring or autumn gives a gentle introduction to Zagorje life, with views of church towers on neighbouring hills and the sound of cowbells and birds. Local wine cellars, known as klijeti, dot the hillsides, and one of them, Klet Mogy, welcomes visitors for tastings. The area is also known for its regional food, such as štrukli, turkey with mlinci, and home-baked cakes. In summer the region hosts festivals, among them a popular music event, and visitors can combine a day in the countryside with a more lively evening.

Other places nearby fill out the picture. The Empirej Castle shows the elegance of a Zagorje manor, and the old town centre of Sveti Križ Začretje has its own church and museum. For shoppers, the Roses Designer Outlet is close to the motorway, and it makes a very different stop in the same part of the country. The chapel is easily reached by car on rural roads, and it makes a pleasant short stop on a drive through the hills.

Chapel doors are usually locked outside services, and interiors are often not open, so enjoy the exterior and the view. The place suits slow travellers, walkers, cyclists and photographers who like unhurried rural scenes.