Cobbled Streets Of Varaždin

The old centre of Varaždin is a compact grid of cobbled streets, squares and lanes in the north of Croatia, on the Drava river, close to the Slovenian and Hungarian borders, and it is one of the best-preserved Baroque town centres in Central Europe. The town is sometimes called Little Vienna, because of its elegant facades in pastel colours, its balanced squares and its atmosphere of an old imperial provincial capital, and the stone-paved streets are the best way to experience this. The old town is largely traffic-free, and the scale is small enough to be covered on foot in a couple of hours.

Varaždin had a period of real importance in the eighteenth century. From the middle of the century, it served for twenty years as the seat of the government of the Croatian lands, which made it the effective capital, and many noble families built town houses and palaces here. A fire in 1776 destroyed a large part of the town, after which the government moved to Zagreb, but the rebuilding gave the town its present Baroque and Rococo appearance, with tall facades, decorated doorways, wrought-iron balconies and inner courtyards. The streets themselves, paved with stone setts, follow the old medieval plan around the castle, and they link the main squares: King Tomislav Square, with the Town Hall, and the squares around the cathedral and the Old Town castle.

Walking along the streets, you notice details that reward a slow pace: coats of arms above doorways, carved stone window frames, shop signs, small plaques and the interplay of light and shadow in narrow alleys. The palaces house museums, galleries, schools and offices, and the ground floors of many buildings contain cafes, bakeries and boutiques. The atmosphere is calm and civilised, and in the evening, the street lights and cafe terraces make it very pleasant. The cathedral, the castle with its city museum, the town hall and the cemetery, with its famous park-like design, are listed in this guide and are all within easy reach.

Varaždin is also a city of music and festivals. It is a UNESCO Creative City of Music, and it hosts the Baroque Evenings festival in autumn, and Špancirfest, a street festival in late summer, when the old town is filled with musicians, performers and stalls. Visiting during one of these events is a lively experience, though it also means crowds.

The streets are uneven, so wear comfortable shoes, particularly in wet weather, when the cobbles are slippery. They are free to walk at any hour. Allow one to two hours. The old town suits couples, history and architecture lovers and anyone who enjoys a relaxed walk in a beautiful setting.