King Tomislav Square (Trg Kralja Tomislava)

King Tomislav Square is the main square of Varaždin, the Baroque town in the far north of Croatia, and it is where most visits to the old centre begin. It is named after Tomislav, the ruler traditionally regarded as the first Croatian king, who was crowned in the early 10th century, and the name is shared by main squares in several Croatian towns. In Varaždin the square is a broad, car-free space surrounded by historic townhouses in pastel colours, and it forms the core of the walkable old quarter, a short stroll from the Stari Grad castle and the cathedral. Despite what some descriptions suggest, it is not a modern station square with an underground mall but a compact historic space of the kind found in Central Europe.

The building that dominates the square is the Town Hall, which stands at one side with a clock tower and a façade decorated with the town's coat of arms. A Town Hall has stood on this site since the 16th century, and the present building is regarded as one of the oldest in Croatia that is still used for its original purpose, with the municipal government meeting inside. Around it, palaces and townhouses show how rich Varaždin was in the 18th century, when it was the capital of Croatia for a few years until a great fire in 1776 destroyed much of the town and the government moved to Zagreb. Rebuilding gave the centre its present Baroque and Rococo character, with elegant façades, wrought-iron balconies and carved doorways. The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and the Gregory of Nin statue are close by, as is the Old Blacksmith's workshop.

The square is lively without being crowded. Cafés set out tables, and locals stop to talk or walk through on the way to the market and the pedestrian streets. Ceremonial events, such as the changing of the guard by costumed members of the town's historic guard on selected days, give it a festive air, and in late summer the square becomes a stage for the Špancirfest street festival and the Baroque Evenings music programme. In winter there are Christmas stalls and lights. The flowerbeds and trees around the edges are well kept, and the paving invites a slow stroll.

Most visitors spend under an hour in the square itself, but it is a good starting point for exploring. From here, narrow lanes lead to Picturesque Squares And Alleys Of Varaždin and the Cobbled Streets, and the Varaždin City Museum in the Stari Grad castle is a short walk away. The Varaždin Cemetery, known for its landscaped design, lies a little farther out.

It suits history and architecture lovers, families and anyone who enjoys sitting at a café table with a view. Visit in the morning for quiet or in the evening when the buildings are lit.