Crkva hrvatskih mučenika (Church of Croatian Martyrs)

Crkva hrvatskih mučenika, the Church of Croatian Martyrs, is a large modern church at Udbina, in Lika-Senj County, in the Lika region of Croatia, on the edge of the Krbava plain. It was built as a national memorial and shrine, a landmark of Croatia’s national memory, and its purpose is to commemorate the Croatian soldiers and civilians who died in the Battle of Krbava Field in 1493, as well as other Croatian martyrs through history. It stands on a rise above the town, and its tall form is visible across the plain.

The battle it remembers is one of the great defeats in Croatian history. On 9 September 1493, a Croatian army led by Ban Emerik Derenčin met a large Ottoman force on the open plain of Krbava and was crushed, with the loss of much of the Croatian nobility of the region. The disaster opened the way for decades of Ottoman raids and conquests across Croatia, and it left a deep mark on the national memory. In later centuries, the battle became a symbol of sacrifice and endurance, and the idea of a memorial church grew from the wish to honour those who had fallen.

The church is striking in design. It was built in the late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries in a modern style that blends traditional elements, such as a strong, simple form and a prominent bell tower, with contemporary architecture. The building is large and solemn, designed to hold a great number of pilgrims, and inside the nave is spacious and bare, with light entering from above, creating an atmosphere of quiet reflection. A statue of Pope John Paul II stands near the entrance, which underlines the spiritual character of the place and its role as a site of pilgrimage and prayer. From the raised site, there are far-reaching views over the Krbava plain, the field where the battle took place.

The church receives pilgrims on the anniversary of the battle in September and at other times of the year, and it is open to visitors, usually throughout the day. Admission is free, and visitors should dress modestly and behave quietly. Opinions about the architecture differ, but the setting and the story give the place a powerful presence.

In the area, the Krbavsko polje and Laudonov gaj, a grove of old oaks planted in the eighteenth century, are good places to visit, and the Church of Croatian Martyrs is one stage on a route that includes the region’s medieval and Frontier history. The site suits history enthusiasts, pilgrims and travellers on the road to Zagreb who wish to pause and reflect.