Krbavsko polje

Krbavsko polje, the Krbava Field, is a wide karst plain in Lika, in the interior of Croatia, near the small town of Udbina, and it is one of the largest and most open landscapes in the country. It is a flat basin, many kilometres long, surrounded by low mountains and bare hills, and it is covered with meadows, scattered fields and stone walls. Because the surrounding limestone does not hold surface water, the plain sometimes floods in wet seasons, and its character changes with the weather and the time of year. The sky seems very large here, and the sense of space is striking after the hills and forests of the road from Zagreb. In the cold months, the area is windswept and snowy, and in summer, it is warm and green.

The plain is a place of historical weight. In 1493, a large Croatian army led by nobles of the region and by Ban Derenčin met an Ottoman force on the Krbava Field, and the Croatians were heavily defeated. Many members of the nobility were killed, and the battle is remembered as one of the most important disasters in Croatian history, because it opened the way for Ottoman expansion in the following decades. The event is not widely interpreted on the ground, but the place carries its memory, and local people and historians continue to tell the story. The Church of Croatian Martyrs in Udbina, a large modern church on a hill above the plain, was built to commemorate the Croatian dead of the battle and other victims, and it is a prominent landmark, visible from far away.

The overlook near the church is a popular stop for travellers who drive between Zagreb and Split. From there, visitors look out across the plain, with the road, villages and fields laid out below, and it is a pleasant place for a rest and photographs. There are few visitor facilities, so bring water and snacks, and expect a quiet, rural atmosphere. Nearby, Laudon's Grove, named after the Habsburg field marshal Ernst Gideon von Laudon, is a small park that commemorates later chapters of the region's military history.

The field makes a good stop on a longer itinerary. Plitvice Lakes National Park lies within an hour's drive to the northwest, and the Velebit mountains rise to the southwest. Lika is known for its potatoes, lamb and cheese, and the roadside stands sell local products. Wear warm clothing in cool seasons, since the wind can be sharp.

The plain suits photographers, history enthusiasts and travellers who want a break from the road. Allow half an hour to an hour, and read about the battle before you visit.