Fort Lovrijenac

Fort Lovrijenac stands on a sheer rock about thirty-seven metres above the sea, just outside the western walls of Dubrovnik, facing Pile Gate across a small cove above the Adriatic Sea. It is often called Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar, a nickname that reflects both its commanding position and its role as the guardian of the city’s western approach, and it is one of the most dramatic sights in the Old Town.

Today the fortress is a monument, and tradition dates it to the early Middle Ages, and the name is linked with a small church of St. Lawrence, Lovrijenac in the local form, that once stood on the rock. Local legend gives a vivid story of its origin. When the Venetian authorities planned to build a fort on the rock, which would have allowed them to dominate the city, the people of Dubrovnik hurried to build one of their own, and they finished it in a few weeks, so that the Venetians arrived to find it already standing. Whatever its true origin, the fortress was developed over the following centuries into a major bastion, with thick walls, gun platforms and a lofty position that made it very hard to attack.

The design is unusual. The wall facing the city is thin, only about sixty centimetres thick, while the walls facing the sea and the landward approach are as much as twelve metres thick. The reason was political: the republic wanted to ensure that if the garrison commander ever rebelled and seized the fort, the city’s cannon could knock down its weak wall. Above the entrance, an inscription declares that liberty is not sold for all the gold in the world, a motto that sums up the spirit of Dubrovnik, an independent republic that guarded its freedom fiercely for centuries.

Visitors enter by a steep stair and a drawbridge, then wander through stone corridors, a central courtyard and a series of terraces with guns. From the upper levels, panoramic views take in the walls and rooftops of the Old Town, the West Harbor with its small boats and the open sea. The courtyard is used each summer as an open-air stage for performances during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, including productions of Hamlet that have become a tradition, and the acoustics and setting are remarkable. Fans of Game of Thrones will recognise the fortress, which served as the Red Keep in the scenes set in King’s Landing, and guides often point out filming locations.

The fort can be visited daily, and entry is often included with a city pass, but opening times vary through the year, so check ahead. Most people spend an hour or so. It suits history lovers, photographers and fans of the television series. The best time is early morning, before the crowds and the heat, and sturdy shoes are advisable because of the steps and uneven stones.