Lanterna Beach

Lanterna Beach is a shingle beach in Rabac, a small seaside resort on the eastern coast of Istria in Croatia, at the foot of the hilltop town of Labin. Rabac occupies a sheltered bay on the Kvarner Gulf, and the beaches around it are mostly pebble and shingle rather than sand, a quality that keeps the water exceptionally clear.

Although it is a small beach, the surroundings help explain the character of the place. Rabac was once a modest fishing village at the bottom of a steep valley, and it grew into a resort over the last century and a half, with a promenade of hotels and cafés along the shore. The hills behind it are covered with pines and scrub, and beyond them rises the long ridge of Mount Učka, which shelters the coast from northerly winds. The sea here is deep blue and warm in summer, and swimming conditions are generally calm. Because the shore shelves reasonably quickly into deeper water, it suits confident swimmers, and children should be watched at the edge.

The beach is a shingle strand backed by trees and the first houses of the resort. Shingle has its own pleasures and drawbacks. It is comfortable to lie on with a mat, it does not stick to skin and towels the way sand does, and it keeps the water clear. But it can be hard on bare feet, so sandals or water shoes are worth bringing. There is usually some shade from trees nearby, and cafés and bars within walking distance provide drinks and simple meals, so you do not need to bring much.

Other beaches and places lie within easy reach. The Rabac promenade, called the Šetalište, runs along the shore and connects Lanterna with Four Elements Beach and the Valamar Girandella Resort, and a gentle walk of an hour or so covers most of the bay. Boat trips leave from the harbour in the season, heading along the coast or to small coves that are hard to reach by land. The old town of Labin is a short drive uphill and rewards a visit for its views and painted houses. The road down to Rabac is winding and steep, which adds to the sense of seclusion.

The beach suits families, couples and anyone who likes a quieter swim close to a small resort. June to September is the best time, with July and August the busiest, and mornings are generally calmer than the afternoon. Check local notices for any seasonal arrangements.