Lastovo Island

Lastovo is a remote island in the southern Adriatic, west of Korčula and far from the main tourist routes, and it is one of the quietest and best-preserved places on the Croatian coast. It covers about 47 square kilometres and is mostly hills covered with Mediterranean forest, with its highest point at around 415 metres, from which there are views across a scattering of smaller islands and islets. Together with these, it forms the Lastovo Archipelago Nature Park, which protects both the land and the sea around it. The coastline is full of coves, cliffs and inlets, and the water is clear and clean, so the island is popular with sailors, divers and people who enjoy solitude.

The history of Lastovo goes back a very long way. People lived here in the Bronze Age, and Greek sailors knew the island as Ladesta. The Romans called it Augusta Insula, the Emperor's Island, and left remains, including some near the ferry port of Ubli. In the Middle Ages the island suffered from pirate raids and attacks from Venice, and later it came under the rule of the Republic of Dubrovnik, which allowed it a degree of self-government under its own statute. The main village, Lastovo, climbs a hillside above a bowl-shaped valley, hidden from the sea so that pirates could not see it, and it is famous for its large, decorative chimneys, with a variety of shapes. The village also has Renaissance houses and churches, and it is known for its carnival, called Poklad, which is held every year and is one of the most distinctive in Croatia.

For much of the 20th century, Lastovo was a military base, closed to foreigners, and this limited development and helped to keep it unspoiled. Today it has a small population and few tourists, which is its main attraction. Visitors can wander through traditional stone villages, walk or cycle on quiet roads, swim in clear coves and dive in waters rich in marine life. Skrivena Luka, the Hidden Harbour, in the southeast, is a sheltered bay popular with yachts, and the Struga Lighthouse is another landmark on the coast. The island is also known for its local food, including lobster, fish, wine and honey, and because there is little light pollution, the night sky is spectacular on clear nights.

Getting there takes planning. Ferries and catamarans connect Lastovo to Split and Korčula, arriving at Ubli, and services can be infrequent outside summer, so check timetables. Facilities are simple, so book accommodation in advance and bring cash.

The island suits nature lovers, divers, sailors, hikers and travellers who want to leave the crowds behind. Spring and early autumn are especially pleasant.