Skrivena Luka (Portorus)

Skrivena Luka, whose name means hidden harbour, is a sheltered bay on the south coast of Lastovo, the remote island in the southern Adriatic, and the name describes it exactly. The bay is tucked deep into the coastline and cannot be seen from the open sea until you are almost inside it, and for centuries, it has been valued as a place where ships could shelter from storms and from pirates. It is also known by its older name, Portorus. Today, it is a peaceful corner of an island that is already one of the quietest places in Croatia, with a handful of houses, a small harbour and a lot of green hillside.

The bay is a natural haven, with steep, wooded slopes on either side and a narrow entrance, and the water inside is calm and clear even when the sea outside is rough. Sailors still use it as an anchorage in summer, and kayakers and swimmers enjoy the protected water. The surrounding vegetation is dense, with pines, holm oaks and olive groves, and the air is scented with herbs. Because the island is part of the Lastovo Archipelago Nature Park, building is limited, and the sea has a rich underwater life, with yellow gorgonian corals and other species that make the area attractive to divers and snorkellers.

The most famous landmark nearby is the Struga lighthouse, which stands on a cape high above the sea and is among the oldest lighthouses on the Adriatic, built in the first half of the nineteenth century when the area was under Austrian rule. It is still in operation and has been renovated so that parts of it can be rented as holiday accommodation, which gives guests the chance to spend a few days in a remote lighthouse with views over the open sea. Peregrine falcons and other birds nest on the cliffs in the area. The lighthouse is listed separately in this guide.

There is a small village in the bay, with a campsite set among olive trees, and a bus service connects it with Lastovo Town and the ferry port at Ubli, though timetables are limited. Facilities are basic, so bring food, water and cash, and plan transport carefully. There is no admission fee, and visitors can explore at their own pace.

The island's isolation is the point. Lastovo was closed to outsiders for much of the twentieth century because of its military role, and that has helped to preserve its traditions and landscape. Nights are very dark, and the stars are bright. Wear walking shoes, bring a hat and sun protection, and allow half a day or more. The bay suits sailors, divers, campers and anyone seeking quiet. Combine it with a visit to Lastovo Town.