Mali Bok beach

Mali Bok is a small, secluded pebble cove on the western side of the island of Cres, in the Kvarner archipelago, reached by a steep path from the village of Orlec, in the middle of the island. It is the kind of beach that most visitors to Cres hear about by word of mouth, and it has a reputation for being one of the most beautiful and least spoiled places to swim on the island. High cliffs enclose the bay on both sides, the water below is a deep turquoise, and the only sounds are the waves on the stones and the birds above the cliffs.

Cres is one of the largest islands of the Adriatic, a long, narrow island of rocky hills, dry-stone walls, sheep pastures and oak woods, with a sparse population and a landscape that feels wild compared with the coast. The west coast is steep and rugged, with few beaches, and the coves that exist are mostly reached on foot or by boat, which keeps the crowds away. The island is also known for its colony of griffon vultures, which nest on the cliffs near the village of Beli, and for its clear, clean seas, which are part of a protected area for dolphins.

Getting to the cove is part of the experience. From the parking area near Orlec, a path descends through scrub and rock to the shore, and the walk takes about fifteen to twenty minutes on the way down and rather longer on the way back up, since it is steep and exposed to the sun. Wear sturdy shoes, not flip-flops, carry water, and be careful of loose stones. Do not rely only on a phone's navigation, since some of the routes it suggests are unsuitable for walking, and follow the marked path from the parking area. The effort is the reason the beach stays quiet.

There are no facilities at the beach. No shop, bar, toilet, shade or lifeguard, so you must bring everything you need: water, food, sun protection, a hat and a bag for your rubbish, which you must carry back up. Water shoes are helpful on the pebbles. The sea is deep close to shore, and the swimming is excellent, with good visibility for snorkelling, but be careful in rough weather, when waves can be strong. Dogs are welcome, which is unusual. Mornings are quieter, with more people arriving in the afternoon.

Elsewhere on the island, Cres Town has a pretty harbour, and the village of Valun is known for a stone tablet written in an old Croatian script. Veli Žal and Sveti Ivan beaches, Plava Grota and Koromačna Bay are listed in this guide. The cove suits fit and adventurous visitors who want a wild swim. Allow half a day.