Plava Grota

Plava Grota, the Blue Grotto, is a sea cave on the western coast of Cres Island, in the Kvarner Bay, in Croatia, in the bay of Žanje below the village of Lubenice. It is a hidden place that can be reached only from the water, and it is one of the most magical swimming and paddling destinations in the northern Adriatic and among Cres Island’s best-kept secrets.

Sea caves like this one form where waves and the slow dissolving action of seawater attack weaknesses in limestone cliffs. The coast of western Cres is steep and sheer, with high cliffs falling directly into deep water, and over time the sea has hollowed out several caves along the base. Plava Grota is the best known. It has two openings, a larger one facing the sea, which is large enough for a swimmer or a small boat to enter, and a smaller one on another side, through which sunlight enters. The interplay of light and water gives the cave its name, since the sunlight entering through the lower opening is filtered by the water and illuminates the interior with a glowing, intense blue.

To experience the effect, visitors swim, paddle or canoe to the entrance, a short distance from the nearest landing point, and then pass inside. Inside the cave there is an airspace about twenty metres long, with a vaulted ceiling and a small pebble beach at the back where it is possible to rest, and the water inside is cool and extremely clear. Shafts of light play on the walls and the water, and the echo of waves adds to the atmosphere. The visit is best made on a calm, sunny day, when the sea is quiet and the light show is at its best, and not in rough weather, when waves can make entering dangerous. Bring a mask and snorkel for the clearest views of the rocks and fish beneath you, and consider water shoes for the pebbles. A short swim in open water is required, so it is not suitable for non-swimmers, and children should be accompanied and, ideally, wear life jackets.

Cres has a long history, going back to the Liburns, the ancient people who lived along this coast, and later to Roman and Venetian rule, when the island’s towns were fortified. Cres Town, with its harbour and Venetian architecture, Valun, a small fishing village, and the beaches of Koromačna, Mali Bok, Sveti Ivan and Veli Žal are among the places to see on the island. Lubenice, above the grotto, is a medieval village on a cliff and a viewpoint.

There is no entry fee and no set opening hours for the cave, but it should be approached with care and respect for safety. It suits adventurous swimmers, kayakers and photographers, and many people visit it as part of a boat trip or kayak tour from the island.