Matija Filjak Mountain Lodge

Matija Filjak Mountain Lodge is a hikers' lodge on Hrastovička Gora, a range of low wooded hills in the Banovina region of central Croatia, a short distance from the town of Petrinja. The hills belong to the northern outliers of the Zrinska Gora, and although they are modest in height, they rise clearly above the surrounding lowlands of the Kupa and Sava valleys. The highest point is a summit named Cepeliš, at about 415 metres above sea level, and the lodge stands near it, which makes it the natural goal and rest stop for walkers in the area.

The countryside here is a mix of beech and oak forest, meadows, small villages and orchards. The landscape is gentle but varied, and the forest cover makes the hills a welcome contrast to the flat farmland below. Marked trails lead to the summit from several directions, and the climb takes a few hours, depending on where you start. The paths run through shaded woods and clearings, and because the area is not heavily visited, you may well have the trails to yourself. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, when temperatures are mild and the woods are colourful, while summer can be hot on the climb and winter paths can be icy.

Next to the lodge, a lookout tower about seventeen metres high rises above the tree line, giving a panoramic view over the forests and the plains beyond. On a clear day, you can see far across the Banovina and toward the Sava valley, and the tower is the main viewpoint on the hills. The lodge itself offers a place to rest, and, when it is open, a drink and a simple meal, though opening depends on volunteers and the season, so ask locally and carry your own food and water. A second viewpoint, known as the Pyramid, lies on the summit of Cepeliš.

The region has suffered in recent years. The Banovina area was affected by the war in the 1990s and then by the strong earthquake of December 2020, which centred near Petrinja and caused heavy damage to buildings across the region, so some local services are still recovering and some buildings in the area may be closed or unsafe. Check the situation locally before travelling, and be prepared for limited facilities.

Other places near the hills include the springs at Izvor Jurica, the ruins of the Church of the Holy Spirit and Petrinja town centre, all listed in this guide. Wear hiking boots, bring a map or offline route, and tell someone your plan. The area suits hikers, nature lovers and visitors who like quiet, little-known places in central Croatia. Allow half a day or more.