Muževa Hiža Cave

Muževa Hiža Cave, whose name means the Man’s House in the local dialect, is a small cave at the end of one of the most dramatic walks in Gorski Kotar, the forested highland behind the Kvarner coast of Croatia. The cave lies in the canyon of Vražji Prolaz, the Devil’s Passage, near the town of Skrad. A trail leads through the canyon to the cave and to Zeleni Vir, the Green Whirlpool, a beautiful pool at the foot of a waterfall.

The setting is the main attraction. Vražji Prolaz is a narrow gorge cut by a stream through limestone, with high cliffs on both sides covered in moss and ferns, and the path winds along the bottom on wooden walkways, steps and bridges that bring visitors close to the water. The walls are so close in places that the light is dim and the air cool, and fir and beech trees lean over the gap, which gives the canyon a mysterious feel. The name comes from legends that the devil himself carved the passage, and local storytellers have a good many tales about it. The whole area is protected as a geomorphological nature monument, declared in 1962, for the unusual shapes created by water and rock.

At the end of the canyon, the walk emerges into a clearing where the Muževa Hiža cave opens in the rock. The cave is small and not extensive, so it is not a place for serious caving, but it is atmospheric to step into its shadowy mouth, feel the cool air and imagine the people who may have used it as a shelter. The name suggests that someone once lived here, or that the shape reminded locals of a dwelling. Do not enter beyond the part that is clearly visible, and take care on the wet, uneven floor.

The nearby Zeleni Vir is the other highlight. A small waterfall drops into a round pool of intense green colour, set among trees, and it is a favourite place for photographers. The pool is protected, and swimming is not allowed. Wear shoes with good grip, because the wooden walkways and the rocks are slippery when wet, and bring a rain jacket, as the weather in the mountains can change quickly. The walk takes about an hour or two for the round trip.

Skrad itself also has marked hiking trails up Skradski Vrh, the hill above the town. The cave suits walkers, families and photographers, and spring and autumn are especially atmospheric.