Vražji Prolaz Gorge

Vražji Prolaz, which means the Devil's Passage, is a narrow gorge near the town of Skrad in Gorski Kotar, the forested mountain region between Zagreb and Rijeka, and it is one of the most dramatic short walks in the Croatian highlands. A small stream, the Jasle, has cut a deep, narrow slot through the limestone over a very long time, so that the walls rise steeply on both sides, covered in moss and ferns and shaded by overhanging trees. In places the gap between the walls is only a couple of metres wide, and the light is dim and green even at midday. The site is protected as a geomorphological reserve, which means that its rock formations and the way they were made are considered worthy of conservation.

The gorge is not long, being less than a kilometre, but the walk through it feels like an adventure. A path has been built along the bottom and the sides, with wooden bridges that cross the stream, metal staircases that climb over rocky steps and safety cables to hold on to in the steeper sections. Wandering through, you pass pools and small waterfalls, and the sound of the water echoes off the walls. The steps can be slippery, especially after rain, and some stretches are steep, so you need to take care and to wear shoes with a good grip. It suits most people with reasonable fitness, including older children, though it is not suitable for those with mobility problems.

At the upper end of the gorge is a cave known as Muževa hižica, which is surrounded by local legends and which is a winter shelter for bats. The bats are protected, and visitors should not disturb them. Near the entrance of the reserve are other features of interest, including a pond and waterfall called Zeleni Vir, the Green Whirlpool, listed in this guide, and an old hydroelectric power station from the early 1920s, known as the Munjara, which recalls the beginnings of electricity generation in the area. The combination of natural and industrial heritage makes the area more varied than a simple nature walk.

The name of the gorge refers to the devil, and local stories say that the passage was made by evil forces, as it looks so unlikely a place for a path. The walls and the dim light certainly lend themselves to such tales. The best time to visit is in late spring and summer, when the temperature in the gorge is cool and the foliage is lush, though autumn colours are beautiful.

Skrad is easily reached from the main road between Zagreb and Rijeka, and the walk takes about an hour or two, including the Green Whirlpool. Bring water, wear sturdy shoes and carry a rain jacket. The gorge suits families with older children, walkers and photographers.