River Kupa

The Kupa is one of the major rivers of Croatia, and at Severin na Kupi, in the Gorski Kotar region, it offers a gentle and scenic stretch for paddling. The river rises in the mountains of Risnjak, where a powerful spring emerges from a deep, clear pool, and it flows for nearly three hundred kilometres before joining the Sava at Sisak. For much of its upper course it forms the border between Croatia and Slovenia, and then it turns east through green valleys and wooded hills. Around Severin, the river is wide, calm and clear, with a bed of pale gravel, grassy banks and trees leaning over the water, and the pace is slow enough for beginners and families.

The usual way to enjoy the river here is on a guided paddling tour by canoe or kayak. Tours typically begin with a van transfer to the starting point upstream and a briefing about safety and technique, and then you set off on a journey of about three and a half hours, drifting back toward the village with the current. The river has short stretches of gentle rapids, which add a little excitement without being dangerous, and long calm reaches where you can rest, look at the scenery and talk. Guides stay with the group, advise on paths and help anyone who needs it, so no experience is necessary, and tours are suitable for children of an appropriate age. Along the way, there are chances to stop for a swim, to picnic on a gravel bank or simply to float and watch the birds and fish.

The river and its surroundings are rich in wildlife. The water is clean and cool and holds trout, grayling and other fish, which attract kingfishers, herons and other birds, and the banks are home to otters and many insects, including dragonflies. The forests that line the valley shelter deer and, farther from the water, bears and wolves, which are rarely seen but are part of the region's wild character. In summer, the water is a welcome relief from heat, and in autumn the riverside trees turn gold and red. The best conditions for paddling are from late spring to early autumn, when water levels are stable and the weather is warm.

Severin na Kupi has more to offer beside the paddling. An old mill, known as the Old Mill, recalls the days when the river powered local industry, and the ruins of a medieval fortress, called Severin Grad, overlook the valley. The village has places to eat, with local trout, lamb and homemade pies on the menu. Reviews of the tours praise their value and the friendliness of the guides, and booking is flexible, though it is wise to reserve ahead in July and August.

The river suits families, couples and groups of friends who want an easy day on the water. Bring a swimsuit, sun protection, a dry change of clothes and a waterproof bag for valuables.