Seskov House

Brod Moravice is a small village in Gorski Kotar, the mountainous and heavily forested region of western Croatia, on the upper Kupa river close to the Slovenian border. It lies in a quiet, green valley with steep wooded slopes, and its houses reflect the building traditions of the highlands, where long winters and abundant timber and stone shaped the way people lived. The Seskov House is one of the buildings that carry that tradition, and it is listed in this guide as a modest example of vernacular architecture. Detailed records of its history and its owners are limited, so this description is about the kind of house it is and what you can learn from it.

Traditional houses in Gorski Kotar share certain features. They were built to resist cold, snow and rain, with thick stone or timber walls, small windows that kept in heat, and steep roofs that shed snow, originally covered with wooden shingles and later with tiles or sheet metal. The ground floor was often of stone and used for animals, storage and the hearth, while living rooms were above or beside, in timber. Wood, from the surrounding forests of beech and fir, was the main material for floors, ceilings, balconies and outbuildings, and the carpentry of old houses is often admirable. Looking at such a house gives a sense of the practical intelligence that went into designs that suited a harsh climate.

Brod Moravice and the neighbouring villages formed part of the trade route between the interior of Croatia and the coast, and the Kupa valley was a corridor for people, goods and timber floated downstream. The Frankopan and Zrinski families held lands in the area, and the fortress at nearby Brod na Kupi is a reminder of their rule. The church of St. Nicholas in the village, listed in this guide, is another of the local landmarks.

For visitors, the pleasure of a house like this lies in seeing it as part of the village and its landscape, and it works best as one stop on a walk. Respect the fact that people may live there or that it may be private property, and look from the road unless you are invited in. Opening arrangements, if any, are not widely published, so ask in the village or at the local tourist office.

The surroundings offer plenty to do. The Kupa canyon and the spring of the river in Risnjak National Park are within reach, and the forests offer marked walks in every direction. Cycling along quiet roads is pleasant, and in autumn the colours of the beech woods are spectacular. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water and check the weather, since conditions in the mountains change quickly. The house suits photographers, architecture enthusiasts and travellers who like quiet rural places. Allow fifteen minutes for the house, and a half day for the village and its surroundings.