Sveti Ivan beach

Sveti Ivan is one of the most secluded beaches on Cres Island, a narrow cove of white shingle on the western coast, washed by the Adriatic, far below the hilltop village of Lubenice. The beach has no road, no kiosk and no buildings, and reaching it takes effort, which is exactly why it feels so remote. It is often named among the most beautiful beaches on the Croatian coast, and those who make the journey tend to agree that the water here is exceptionally clear.

Lubenice itself deserves a stop before the descent. The village sits on a high cliff, roughly 380 metres above the sea, and it has been inhabited since ancient times, since the steep rock offered natural protection. A few houses are still occupied, and in summer concerts and small events take place in the village, which has become something of a cultural outpost. The views from the edge of the cliff, over the open sea toward the islands of Plavnik and Krk and, on a clear day, the Italian coast, are among the finest on the island.

The path to the beach begins at the village and drops steeply down a rocky slope through scrub and low woodland. It takes roughly three-quarters of an hour to an hour going down and more on the way back up, and the surface is loose and uneven in places, so sturdy shoes and a good level of fitness are needed. Take plenty of water, food and sun protection, as there is no shade on parts of the path and nothing for sale at the bottom. Boat trips offer another way to arrive, from Cres Town, Valun or other harbours, and these are often the easier choice for families.

The beach itself is a cove of pale, smooth pebbles, framed by steep slopes covered in Mediterranean vegetation. The water is deep blue and green, and the sea floor is clean and light. Swimming is excellent, and snorkelling is rewarding along the rocks. Dogs are usually welcome, and the beach stays far less crowded than the more accessible spots on the island, even in the peak of summer. It is also exposed to wind and waves, so check conditions before you set out, and plan your return before dark.

Sveti Ivan suits fit walkers, swimmers and travellers who prefer wild places to organised beaches. Other places on Cres, including Cres Town, Valun, Mali Bok, Veli Žal, Plava Grota and Koromačna bay, offer more accessible options.