The Old Town of Bale

The old town of Bale, in Italian Valle, sits on a small hill in the south-west of Istria, about fifteen kilometres from Rovinj and a few kilometres from the sea, and it is one of the best-preserved medieval settlements on the peninsula. It is a compact, oval-shaped nucleus of stone houses, squares and passages clustered around the largest building in town, and it is small enough to cover on foot in an hour or so. Compared with the busy coastal resorts, the atmosphere is calm, and many of the buildings have been restored with care.

The history of the place goes back a long way. The hill was fortified in the pre-Roman period, and archaeological finds show that the Romans had estates in the area, taking advantage of the fertile land for olives and vines. In the Middle Ages, the settlement belonged to a series of local lords and then passed under Venetian rule, and it was during this period that most of the surviving buildings were erected. The layout follows a classic Istrian pattern, with a ring of houses forming a continuous wall around the hill and narrow lanes leading to a central square.

The most important building is the Soardo-Bembo palace, a large house of the early sixteenth century that combines Gothic and Renaissance features, named after the two noble families who held it in turn. It has an imposing facade with carved windows and a fortified look, and it was restored in recent years. Today it houses the community of local Italians and displays an exhibition of Venetian costumes, which gives the visitor a taste of the elegance of earlier times. Next to the parish church, a lapidary in the crypt displays stone fragments and finds from the town and its environs, which help tell the story of its early centuries.

Walking through the lanes, you notice details such as carved door lintels, stone stairs, coats of arms and small balconies with flowers. The churches of St. Julian and St. Mary Magdalene, a monument to the fallen and a scenic viewpoint on the edge of town are all listed in this guide, and the market square is described separately. The surroundings are olive groves and vineyards, and the quality of the oil has made the area known to food lovers, with mills and farms offering tastings.

In summer, Bale has a lively cultural calendar, with concerts and exhibitions, including a jazz festival, in its squares. Free parking is available outside the walls. Wear comfortable shoes for the steep, polished stone. Allow an hour or two. The old town suits couples, history lovers and slow travellers.