Umag Old Town and Harbor

Umag is the westernmost town in Croatia, on the northwest coast of Istria close to the border with Slovenia and a short distance from Trieste. Its old town sits on a small peninsula that juts into the Adriatic, and it is wrapped around a compact harbour. This is the part of Umag worth lingering in: the resort hotels and campsites spread along the coast to either side, but the historic centre keeps the scale and rhythm of an old fishing and trading town.

The settlement has very old roots, and traces of Roman habitation have been found in the area. The street plan you walk today, however, is largely medieval and Venetian in character, with narrow lanes that curve toward the sea, houses of local stone with shuttered windows, and small squares opening between them. Parts of the old walls and a few towers survive, and some of the buildings along the waterfront show how the town defended itself and traded across the water. You can see how the quarter was once tightly enclosed, with the sea on three sides.

The harbour is the living part of the old town. Fishing boats unload at the quay, small boats bob beside the stone wall, and cafes and restaurants line the promenade, serving grilled fish, shellfish and Istrian wine to people watching the evening. The marina next to the old town has been awarded the Blue Flag, an international mark for environmental quality and good facilities, and it adds a polished modern note to the old stone quay. Local museums and the central square are within a few minutes' walk, so the old town makes a convenient base for short exploration.

Umag is also well known in the tennis world. The ATP Tour has long come to Umag for the tournament known as the Croatia Open, associated with the Plava Laguna resort and its stadium, which draws players and spectators to the town in July. If you are here in summer, the atmosphere in the town is lively, with extra visitors and events.

A stroll around the old town and harbour takes about an hour, longer if you stop for a meal. It suits couples, families and cyclists exploring the Istrian coast, and it is easy to reach on foot from the main streets. Evening is the best time, when the light softens on the sea and the promenade fills with people.