Veli Žal beach

Veli Žal is a pebble beach on Cres Island, in the Kvarner Gulf, in Croatia, reached from the small village of Ustrine. It is a quiet, undeveloped place with clear water and a rugged green setting, and it is one of the spots on the island that visitors recommend for a peaceful swim away from the busier coast near the main town.

Cres is a long, narrow island, the largest in the northern Adriatic along with its neighbour Krk, and it feels very different from the crowded coastal resorts. Much of the interior is a landscape of dry-stone walls, sheep pastures and old oak woods, and the coastline is cut by cliffs and small coves. The island is thinly populated, with only a few villages, and large areas are protected. Seabirds nest on the cliffs, and griffon vultures soar above the northern part. The water around the island is among the cleanest in the Adriatic, since there are few towns or industries to pollute it, and it has an intense turquoise colour over pale pebbles.

Veli Žal fits that picture. The beach is a stretch of smooth pebbles, with a gentle slope into the sea, which makes it suitable for swimmers of different abilities and for families. The water is transparent, and it is easy to see fish and the seabed from the surface, which makes snorkelling rewarding. Behind the beach, the land rises in rough slopes covered with Mediterranean scrub, holm oak and pine, which provide a green backdrop and occasional shade, and the smell of herbs, such as sage and rosemary, drifts down on warm days.

The absence of facilities is part of the appeal. There are no major services on the beach itself, so visitors need to bring water, food, sun protection and a shade if they want it, and to take away all rubbish. The only sounds are waves, wind and the occasional boat, and the sense of seclusion is strong. Accessible by car and a short walk from Ustrine, the beach has limited parking, so arrive early in July and August. Water shoes help on the pebbles.

Other places on the island offer variety. Cres Town has a pretty harbour and old streets, Valun is a small fishing village known for a medieval stone tablet written in the Glagolitic script, and Koromačna Bay, Mali Bok beach, Plava Grota and Sveti Ivan beach provide more places to swim. The island can be reached by ferry from the mainland at Brestova or from Krk.

The beach suits nature lovers, couples and families who like quiet. Visit in June or September for calm water and fewer people.