Vineyard Route to Kneževi Vinogradi

The Vineyard Route to Kneževi Vinogradi is a scenic road through the wine country of Baranja, the triangle of land in north-eastern Croatia between the Danube and the Drava, which has been a wine-growing region since Roman times. It is often described as the wine heartland of eastern Croatia, and the road is a good way to see the landscape that produces some of the country's best-known white wines. The route runs for about eight kilometres through rows of vines on the gentle loess hills, with wide views over the Pannonian plain, and it is easily done as a day trip from Osijek, about half an hour away by car.

Baranja's climate and soil explain its reputation. The summers are warm and dry, the winters are cold, and the fine, deep loess soil of the hills drains well and holds warmth, which suits many grape varieties. White wines dominate, with Graševina, known elsewhere as Welschriesling, as the most widely planted grape, together with Rhine Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Traminer and Chardonnay. Red varieties, such as Frankovka and Cabernet, are also grown. The region's wines are fresh, fruity and good with local food, and several of them are well known outside Croatia.

A large part of the vineyards belongs to Belje, the great agricultural company whose origins go back to the late seventeenth century, when the estate was granted to Prince Eugene of Savoy after the Habsburg victory over the Ottomans. Belje has a long tradition of winemaking and operates large cellars, among them historic ones that are more than a century old, and the Centennial Wine Cellars of Kneževi Vinogradi, listed in this guide, are among the best known. Alongside the big estate, many small family wineries make wine in cellars dug into the hillsides, and some of them welcome visitors for tastings, tours and meals. In many places, you can eat the hearty food of Baranja, such as fish stew, sausages, smoked meat and sweet pastries, and some wineries offer rooms for the night.

The scenery is a major part of the appeal. In spring, the vines come into leaf, and in late summer, the grapes ripen, while in autumn, the harvest turns the hills red and gold, and local festivals celebrate the new wine. The roads are quiet and suitable for cycling, and viewpoints along the route allow you to look out over the plain, with the villages and fields spread below.

It is wise to call ahead to arrange visits, especially to small wineries, since opening hours are not always fixed, and to appoint a designated driver, as tastings can be generous. Bring water and sun protection. Allow a half day or a full day. The route suits wine lovers, cyclists, couples and anyone who enjoys gentle countryside and good food.