Vineyards of Duga Resa

Duga Resa is a small town in central Croatia, in Karlovac County, on the banks of the Mrežnica river, and it is best known for the river rather than for wine. The Mrežnica is one of the most beautiful rivers in the country, with water of striking clarity, a string of waterfalls and cascades built of travertine, and green banks lined with willows and reeds. Canoeing, kayaking and swimming are popular, and the river has made the area a favourite place for a summer break. Away from the water, the gentle hills around the town are dotted with small family vineyards, and these give the area a quieter, agricultural side that is easy to overlook.

The vineyards are small and mostly run by families who grow grapes for their own use and for friends and neighbours. They sit on slopes with a good exposure to the sun, among fields, meadows and patches of forest, and the rows of vines follow the contours of the land. The climate is continental, with warm summers and cold winters, and the soil is fertile. Producers grow a mix of white and red varieties, and the wines tend to be light, fresh and easy to drink, with crisp whites and soft reds. Winemaking is a long tradition in the region, handed down through generations, and the cellars are modest, often little more than a room in a farmhouse or a small building among the vines.

Visits are informal and personal. Most can be arranged by contacting a producer directly or through the tourist office in Duga Resa, and there are no fixed opening hours or admission fees. A typical tasting takes place in the courtyard or at a table in the cellar, with a few wines poured by the owner, who is usually happy to talk about the vineyard, the harvest and the way the wine is made, and who may offer homemade bread, cheese or cured meat. The best time to visit is late summer and early autumn, when the grapes ripen and the harvest begins, and the countryside is full of colour and activity.

The Mrežnica provides a natural complement to a wine visit. Waterfalls and mill sites lie along the river, boat and canoe trips start at several points, and the town has riverside paths and picnic areas. Karlovac, the nearby city with its star-shaped fortress and its rivers, is easy to reach. If you plan to taste wine, arrange a driver or a taxi, and drink water between glasses.

The vineyards suit travellers who enjoy rural hospitality, small producers and combining wine with river activities. Allow a couple of hours, and book ahead where possible.