Vratnik

Vratnik is the name given to the high pass above Senj, where the road from the Adriatic climbs steeply over the Velebit range and then drops toward Lika and the interior. In Croatian a vratnik is a gatekeeper, and the name fits: this saddle in the mountains is the gateway between the sea and the hinterland, and for centuries it has been a place to watch, to guard and to toll traffic. The site is also known as Vratnik Fortress, a reference to the defensive character of the place.

The pass is some 700 metres above the sea, and the climb from the coast gives a rapid change of scene, from Mediterranean vegetation at the waterfront to open beech woods and grassy hillsides near the top. The road that crosses it follows the line of the old route known as the Josephina, a 18th-century highway that linked Karlovac with the coast at Senj. Travellers, soldiers and merchants all used this crossing, and it made the high ground strategically valuable for whoever held Senj.

The bura, the cold wind that blows down from the mountains, is at its most dramatic here. In winter it can close the road to traffic, and even on a mild day the gusts at the saddle can be strong. Visitors should dress for wind, whatever the weather is like at sea level. The same winds, and the shape of the terrain, create a rugged, open landscape that feels very different from the sheltered streets of the old town below.

Views are the main reward. From the viewpoints near the pass you look across the Senj coast of Croatia and the Kvarner channel to the islands of Krk, Rab and Prvić, and the town's red roofs and the Nehaj Fortress stand out clearly below. Late afternoon is especially good for photographs, when the light warms the limestone and the sea turns silver. Several paths lead into the surrounding woods, and walkers will find a mix of flora and wildlife that includes wildflowers, butterflies and, in the wilder parts of Velebit, larger animals that keep well out of sight.

The pass is reached by car or taxi from Senj, and the drive takes only a short time. It is a good stop for anyone driving the road between the coast and the interior, and it pairs naturally with a visit to the old town, Park Nehaj and the Senj City Museum. It suits photographers, drivers and walkers who like high places with a long view.