Zarecki Krov

Zarecki Krov, properly Zarečki Krov, is a small waterfall and swimming spot a few kilometres from Pazin, in the green interior of Istria, in Croatia, one of Istria’s lesser-known natural spots. The word krov in this part of Istria is used for a ledge or step of rock over which a stream falls, and here the water drops over a broad shelf into a sheltered pool, forming a modest cascade that is as much a place for people as a natural feature.

Central Istria is quite different from the coast. The landscape is one of wooded hills, small fields, vineyards and villages built of grey stone, and the streams run through shallow valleys cut into soft rock. The area around Pazin is known as Green Istria, in contrast to the blue of the sea and the white of the stony coastal karst, and it has plenty of water, which feeds the rivers that run from the highlands. The Pazinčica stream, which flows through Pazin and disappears into the famous Pazin Chasm, is part of this system, and small waterfalls and pools are found along it and its neighbours.

At Zarečki Krov the main attraction is swimming. The water is cool, even in midsummer, and clear, and the rock ledge gives swimmers a place to sit, jump and dive, with the pool below deep enough in most conditions. Water shoes are recommended, because the rocks around the pool can be slippery and sharp. A wooden refreshment stand run by friendly staff sells drinks, ice cream and simple snacks, which makes it easy to spend an afternoon, and the place is popular with local families and young people on hot days. In dry periods the stream is smaller, and after heavy rain the current and the colour of the water change, so take care and check conditions before jumping.

Compared with the crowded beaches of the coast, this is a quiet and informal place, and visitors often describe it as a refreshing break from the busier tourist sites. There is no charge, and the spot is generally open to the public, although it is a natural site with no lifeguard, so swimming is at your own risk.

The surrounding area has other things to see. Pazin has a medieval castle on the edge of a deep chasm, which inspired the French writer Jules Verne in a novel, and the Pazin Cave is part of the same story. The Anđelini Winery, nearby, offers tastings of Istrian wine. Combining a swim with a visit to the castle and a winery makes a satisfying day.

It suits families, wild-swimming fans and anyone looking for cool water in summer. Wear sturdy sandals, bring a towel and take your rubbish home.