Istrian food in a nutshell
Pula sits at the southern tip of Istria, a peninsula whose cooking draws on both Croatian and Italian traditions, with the sea on one side and farmland, olive groves and oak forests on the other. The result is one of the most distinctive regional cuisines in Croatia: homemade pasta, truffles, slow-cooked meat stews, excellent olive oil and very fresh fish and shellfish. Pula itself is a working port city rather than a resort, and some of its best food is in simple, local places.
Dishes to look for
Start with the pasta. Fuži are short, hand-rolled quills of egg pasta, and pljukanci are small, hand-rolled twists; both are served with goulash-like meat sauces, game, truffles or seafood. Maneštra is a thick vegetable and bean soup, the Istrian answer to minestrone, often made with corn or barley.
Istrian pršut is a dry-cured ham, air-dried without smoke, and is usually served thinly sliced as a starter with local cheese. Boškarin, the native grey long-horned Istrian ox, appears on menus as carpaccio, stew or in sauces for pasta. Along the coast, look for scampi from the Kvarner and Istrian waters, cooked "na buzaru" in garlic, wine and breadcrumbs, as well as grilled fish, octopus and mussels. In season, from autumn into winter, white truffles from inland Istria are shaved over pasta, eggs and risotto.
The city market
Pula's market (tržnica) is a short walk from the Forum and the Arena, centred on a handsome iron-and-glass market hall dating from the early 20th century. The fish market is downstairs, and stalls selling meat, cheese and pršut fill the hall above, while the open-air stalls outside offer fruit, vegetables, honey, olive oil and homemade liqueurs. Mornings are the best time to visit, and the cafés around the market are where locals stop for coffee after shopping. It is also a good place to assemble a picnic.
Where locals eat
Restaurants change, so check recent reviews, but a few places have been recommended by locals and guides for years.
Vodnjanka, in the city, is a small, family-run konoba known for home cooking. Its menu is short and changes with what is available, with dishes such as fuži, maneštra and Istrian stews. It has traditionally been cash-only, and booking ahead is wise.
Konoba Batelina, in the village of Banjole about five kilometres south of Pula, is one of the best-known seafood restaurants in Istria. It is run by a fishing family and serves what the boats bring in, often including less familiar fish and offal dishes that change daily. It opens in the evening, and reservations are essential, sometimes weeks ahead in summer.
In Pula, Farabuto is often recommended for risotto, pasta and local pršut, and Ribarska Koliba on the Verudela peninsula is a favourite for fish by the water.
Olive oil and wine
Istria produces some of the most highly rated olive oil in the world, much of it from small producers around Vodnjan, a few kilometres north of Pula. Many producers offer tastings and sell directly from their farms, usually by appointment. In Pula, the House of Istrian Olive Oil, close to the Arena, explains the history of olive growing in Istria and offers tastings.
The main Istrian wines are Malvazija, a fresh white that goes well with seafood, and Teran, a deep, acidic red that suits meat dishes and pršut. Many restaurants serve both by the glass, often from small local wineries.
Practical tips for eating in Pula
Lunch is a good time to eat in local konobas, which often offer a daily menu (marenda or dnevni meni) at lower prices. Fish is usually priced by weight; ask to see the fish and confirm the price before it is cooked. Bread and a cover charge may appear on the bill. Tipping around 10 percent is appreciated for good service.
In July and August, book popular restaurants ahead, especially for dinner. Outside summer, some places on the coast close or reduce their hours, while those in the city that serve locals stay open. If you are visiting in autumn, look out for truffle and new olive oil events around Istria, which make it one of the best seasons for food lovers.
