Istria's truffle country
Inland Istria is one of the few places in the world where the prized white truffle (Tuber magnatum) grows. The heart of truffle country is the valley of the Mirna river and the Motovun forest, an oak and ash woodland on the valley floor below the hill town of Motovun, along with the hills around Buzet and the village of Livade. The damp, chalky soils of the valley and its side streams provide the conditions the white truffle needs.
Black truffles, which are less aromatic and less expensive, are found in Istria for much of the year, so there is truffle on menus in every season. But autumn, when the white truffle is in season, is when the region comes alive.
When is truffle season?
The white truffle season starts in early autumn and runs into the winter, with October and November usually considered the best months for both quality and quantity. In 2026 the season was officially opened in Motovun in early September. The exact length and the size of the harvest depend on rainfall and temperature, and dry years can be poor, which drives prices up.
The truffles themselves are seasonal and perishable: a white truffle is at its best for only a few days after it is dug up. That is why restaurants in the region shave them fresh over dishes rather than cooking them.
How a truffle hunt works
Truffles grow underground among tree roots, and they are found by trained dogs that pick up the scent and dig, with the hunter stepping in to lift the truffle out carefully without damaging it or the roots. In Istria, hunting is traditionally done with dogs rather than pigs.
Collecting truffles is regulated in Croatia and requires a licence, so visitors cannot simply head into the forest on their own. Instead, several family-run truffle businesses around Buzet, Livade and Motovun offer guided hunts with licensed hunters and their dogs. A typical experience starts with an introduction to truffles and the dogs, continues with a walk of an hour or so in the forest, and ends with a tasting, often of scrambled eggs or pasta with freshly shaved truffle. Prices depend on the length of the experience and what is included in the meal, so compare offers and book ahead, especially at weekends in October.
Wear sturdy, waterproof shoes and clothes you don't mind getting muddy: the forest floor is often wet in autumn. Finds are never guaranteed, though experienced hunters usually know where to look.
Autumn truffle festivals
The truffle calendar is packed in autumn, and the main events follow a similar pattern every year, though dates change, so check the Istria tourist board's calendar.
Buzet, which calls itself the town of truffles, holds Subotina in September, a festival known for cooking a giant truffle omelette in the main square. Livade hosts weeks of truffle events in October, including the Zigante Truffle Days at weekends and a food festival, with truffle fairs, tastings and cooking demonstrations. Motovun holds a celebration of Teran wine and truffles in October, and Buzet returns with an Istrian truffle festival in November.
Istrian truffles also hold a famous record: in November 1999 the truffle hunter Giancarlo Zigante and his dog found a white truffle weighing about 1.31 kilograms near Buje, in north-western Istria. It entered the Guinness Book of Records as the largest white truffle found at the time, and Zigante's company is now one of the best-known truffle businesses in the region.
Where to eat truffles
Almost every konoba in inland Istria serves truffle dishes in autumn. Classics include fuži or pljukanci (handmade Istrian pasta) with truffles, fritaja (an omelette) with truffles, beef carpaccio or steak with shaved truffle, and truffle risotto. With white truffle, simple dishes with butter, eggs or pasta are best, because they let the aroma speak. Prices for dishes with fresh white truffle are much higher than for black truffle, and some restaurants charge by the gram, so check the menu or ask before ordering.
Pair truffle dishes with Istrian wines: Malvazija, the region's fresh white, or Teran, a bright, acidic red.
Buying truffles and truffle products
Fresh white truffles are expensive, and the price per kilo changes with the season and the size of the harvest. Buy from established truffle shops or producers rather than roadside stalls, smell before you buy (a good white truffle has a strong, distinctive aroma), and keep it in an airtight container in the fridge, wrapped in paper, for no more than a few days. Truffle oils, pastes and salts are cheaper and easier to take home, but check the ingredients, as many "truffle" oils use synthetic flavouring rather than real truffle.
