Buba Beach

Buba Beach is a seaside bar and bathing spot on the waterfront of Makarska, the lively resort town at the foot of the Biokovo mountains in central Dalmatia. Makarska has one of the most photogenic settings on the Croatian coast, with a wide, curved bay, a long promenade and the bare grey wall of Biokovo rising directly behind it, and the beach bars along the shore are where much of the town's social life takes place. Buba is one of those places, known more for its atmosphere than for any formal sight, and it appeals to people who like to combine a swim with a drink and some music.

The setup is simple. The bar stands on or beside a pebble beach, with tables and loungers set out within easy reach of the water, and an outdoor terrace with a view over the bay. During the day, a DJ often plays house and other dance music at a moderate volume, and in the late afternoon and evening the mood builds as people gather to watch the sunset. The menu typically covers local wine, cocktails, beer and soft drinks, together with snacks, and the service is relaxed. The bar has a slightly worn, informal charm rather than polished design, which suits the laid-back style of the place. Hours vary with the season, so check before you go.

The setting is the main attraction. Sunset over the bay is particularly beautiful, with the light turning the water and the mountain slopes pink and orange, and the old town and the harbour glowing on the other side. The pebble shore slopes into clear water that is good for swimming, and shoes for the pebbles are helpful. The beach can be crowded in July and August, so arrive early or visit in the shoulder season.

Makarska has other sights to fill the rest of the day. The promenade and the main square, Kačić Square, with the church of St. Mark, make a pleasant walk, and the Franciscan monastery houses a well-known collection of sea shells. Nugal beach, listed in this guide, is a quieter and more secluded pebble beach under the cliffs, reached on foot. High above the town, the Biokovo Nature Park offers hiking and the Biokovo Skywalk, a glass viewing platform with a panorama over the coast and the islands.

Admission to a beach bar is free, and you only pay for what you order. Bring sun protection and water, and be careful with alcohol in the heat, especially if you plan to swim. The place suits young couples, groups of friends and travellers who enjoy a social beach setting. For quiet swimming, choose another part of the coast.