Caput Insulae Eco Centre Beli

The Caput Insulae Eco Centre is in Beli, a village on the northeastern side of Cres Island in Croatia, and it is devoted to the griffon vulture, the huge scavenging bird that nests on the cliffs around the village. Cres lies in the Kvarner Gulf, and its northern part, called Tramuntana, is a wild, thinly populated landscape of stone walls, sheep pastures, oak woods and steep cliffs above the sea. The vultures have lived here for centuries, and Beli is one of the best places in Europe to see them in the wild.

The Eco Centre was founded by the conservationist Goran Šušić as part of a long-running effort to protect the birds. The griffon vulture nearly disappeared from this region in the 20th century, through poisoning, disturbance and the decline of grazing, and the local colony fell to a small number of pairs. Through protection, feeding sites, a rescue centre for injured birds and work with farmers, the colony has recovered substantially, and Cres is now regarded as a conservation success story. The centre belongs to the broader story of Beli itself, whose name is linked to the Latin Caput Insulae, the head of the island.

Visitors learn about the birds through displays that explain their biology, their role in cleaning up carcasses, the threats they face and the work being done to help them. A wingspan of up to nearly three metres makes the griffon one of the largest European birds, and seeing one at close range, as in the rescue facility, gives a strong impression of its size. The Rescue Centre for Griffon Vultures (Beli Visitor Centre) is a separate point of interest, where recovering birds can be seen. The centre also runs volunteer programmes in which people help with practical conservation work, such as monitoring nests and assisting with the care of birds, and these usually last a week or more. Information is provided in English as well as Croatian.

Beyond the centre, Beli has a lot to offer. Walking trails lead through the Tramuntana landscape, past Rock Sculptures and Labyrinths, to the bays of Uvala Lokva and Uvala Sveti Petar, and to viewpoints high above the sea. The village is small and quiet, with a few places to eat and stay. Opening times vary by season, so check before travelling.

It suits nature lovers, families with older children and anyone who enjoys wildlife and quiet landscapes. Bring binoculars, sun protection and good shoes.