Uvala Lokva bay

Uvala Lokva is a small bay below the village of Beli, on the northeastern side of Cres Island, a Croatian island in the Kvarner Gulf. Beli itself sits high on a rocky ridge, around a hundred metres above the water, and it is often described as one of the oldest settlements on the island. Its Roman name was Caput Insulae, the head of the island, and the cliffs beneath it drop sharply to the sea. Lokva, a word for a pond or puddle, suggests a sheltered inlet, and the bay lives up to the name with calm, clear water in a hollow of the coast.

The way down is part of the appeal. A steep path leads from the village to the shore, winding through scrub and rock with views of the sea opening up as you descend. The walk back up is the hard half, so the beach rewards people who are happy to walk rather than those who want a car park beside the sand. Sturdy shoes are essential, and so are water and a hat, since there is little shade on the way. The beach is a mix of pebbles and flat rock, and there are usually few facilities, so bring what you need for the day.

The water is the main attraction. It is clear and fairly calm, and the sea floor drops quickly enough to give good swimming, while the rocks and fish along the edges make it a pleasant place for snorkelling. Because the bay is small and access is not easy, it stays quieter than the more developed beaches on Cres and Lošinj, which suits swimmers who like to be left alone. In summer, however, a few boats may anchor off the shore, and weekends can be busier. It is wise to check weather and wind conditions, since the northeastern coast can get rough when the bura blows.

Beli has several other things worth seeing, and many visitors combine the bay with a day in the village. The Caput Insulae Eco Centre Beli and the Rescue Centre for Griffon Vultures (Beli Visitor Centre) tell the story of the vultures that nest on the cliffs, and the Rock Sculptures and Labyrinths are an unusual outdoor attraction. The Uvala Sveti Petar bay is another cove on the same stretch of coast. Small restaurants and guesthouses in the village offer simple food and lodging.

Uvala Lokva suits walkers, swimmers and anyone who enjoys wild coastline rather than organised beaches. Go early in the day, take plenty of water and plan your walk back up before the afternoon heat.