Church of St. Peter and Paul

Draž is a small village in Baranja, the corner of eastern Croatia where the Drava meets the Danube and the land is flat, fertile and open to the sky. In a place with so few hills, a tall building is easy to see for miles, and the Church of St. Peter and Paul, with its slim brick tower, is the landmark that tells you that you have reached the village. It stands at Pavla Pejačevića 1, in the middle of Draž.

The church is a red-brick building in the neo-Gothic style, which became popular across Central Europe in the 19th century and was often used for new parish churches. It dates from the late 19th century, when Baranja belonged to the Austro-Hungarian monarchy and wealthy landowners and local communities paid for ambitious new churches. Its tall tower is one of the highest church towers in the region, and the pointed arches, buttresses and carved brickwork on the outside reflect the same tradition that shaped many Gothic Revival churches in Vienna, Budapest and Zagreb, including Zagreb’s own cathedral.

Inside, tall windows with stained glass fill the nave with coloured light, and the interior is decorated in a way that suits the vertical lines of the architecture. The atmosphere is calm and a little grand for such a small village. Baranja has a mixed history, with Croatian, Hungarian, German and Serbian communities living side by side, and the church is part of that story as the main place of worship for the village's Catholic residents.

Visiting is easy. The church is in the village centre, within walking distance of the sites most visitors come for, such as the sandy beach on the Danube known as the Baranja Maldives, the Kolar Cellars and Kušaonica Svijetli Dvori, a tasting room where local wines are served. Opening times depend on parish services, so it is wise to ask locally, and visitors should dress modestly and keep quiet if a service is in progress.

The church suits architecture enthusiasts, photographers and anyone exploring Baranja by car or bicycle. Because the countryside here is so flat, the tower makes a good reference point on a ride. Late afternoon, when the sun lights the brick in warm colours, is the best moment for photographs, and the village is peaceful enough for a short stop before heading on to the riverside or the vineyards.