Kušaonica Svijetli Dvori

Kušaonica Svijetli Dvori is a wine tasting room in Draž, a small village in Baranja, the north-eastern corner of Croatia, where the Danube and Drava rivers define the landscape and wine has been made for centuries. The word kušaonica simply means a place for tasting, and it describes a type of venue that has become a favourite way to meet local wine producers. In Draž, the tasting room offers guided tastings of white and red wines with snacks of the region, and it is a good place to learn about wine in Baranja without needing to visit many cellars.

Baranja is a warm, dry area on the northern slopes of the Banovo Brdo and Bansko Brdo hills, and its loess soils and sunny summers are well suited to vines. White wines dominate, with the most important varieties including Graševina, known elsewhere as Welschriesling, as well as Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Traminac and Sauvignon Blanc, and the red varieties include Frankovka, Cabernet and Merlot. Many producers are small family businesses, and the cellars are often built into the hillside, with long, cool tunnels where the wine matures in barrels. The tradition runs through several generations, and the Hungarian, Croatian, Serbian and German communities have all left a mark on its cuisine and culture.

A typical tasting here lasts a couple of hours and includes explanations of how the wines are made, the characteristics of each grape variety and how to match wine with food. The wines are accompanied by local specialities, such as cured meats, often including kulen, the spicy paprika sausage that is one of the best-known products of eastern Croatia, as well as ham and soft goat cheese. The experience is relaxed, informal and generally good value, and the staff are happy to answer questions. It is wise to check the opening times, which vary with the day of the week and the season, and to book ahead for groups.

Draž itself has some interest. The village is known as the Baranja Maldives in local tourism promotion, a nickname for the lakes and channels in the area that attract visitors, and it also has the Church of St. Peter and Paul. Kolar Cellars, listed in this guide, is another place for tasting. The surrounding countryside is flat and green, ideal for cycling, and the nearby Kopački Rit Nature Park is one of Europe's great wetlands.

If you plan to taste several wines, arrange a driver, use a taxi or stay nearby. The visit suits wine lovers, couples and groups, and anyone who wants to see the food and drink culture of Slavonia and Baranja.