Kolar Cellars

Draž is a village in Baranja, the north-eastern corner of Croatia between the Drava and the Danube, where gentle hills of loess rise from the plain and vineyards cover the slopes. Kolar Cellars is a family winery and farm in the village, and it is one of several small producers that make Baranja an attractive region for a wine trip. The setting is rural and unhurried, with rows of vines, fruit trees and farm buildings, and the hospitality is of the informal kind that is typical of the countryside.

Baranja has a long wine tradition that goes back to Roman times, and its sunny, dry climate and soils suit white grapes in particular. The main variety is Graševina, a fresh, fruity white that is Croatia's most widely planted, and winemakers also grow Chardonnay, Traminac, Rhine Riesling and others, along with red varieties such as Frankovka. The wines are usually light and easy to drink, and they pair well with the hearty local food: smoked sausages, stews cooked in a cauldron, freshwater fish from the nearby rivers and sweet pastries. A visit to a family cellar usually involves a tasting at a wooden table, often with a plate of local meats, cheese and bread, and conversation with a member of the family about the vintage, the vineyard and the way the wines are made.

At Kolar Cellars, the tasting is built around the estate's own wines and traditional food prepared on site. The farm grows crops as well as grapes, which gives the visit a mixed-farming feel, and the family offers a small number of rooms for guests who want to stay overnight, a practical choice if you plan to taste several wines and not drive. A typical visit lasts a couple of hours, and it is wise to arrange it in advance, particularly for groups, because family wineries do not always keep fixed hours.

The surrounding area is worth exploring. The village of Draž is known for the Baranja Maldives, a sandy beach on the Danube, and for the Church of St. Peter and Paul with its tall tower, while Kušaonica Svijetli Dvori is another tasting room in the village. Zmajevac, a few kilometres away, has its famous wine streets with their traditional cellars, and the Kopački Rit wetlands are within easy reach. Cycling routes link the villages and vineyards of the region.

The cellar suits wine lovers, couples and small groups who enjoy conversation as much as the glass. Spring, early summer and the harvest season in September and October are the best times to visit. Check the family's opening arrangements, prices and the languages they speak before going.