Church of St. Vitus

The Church of St. Vitus is a small church in Split, the largest city on the Dalmatian coast. What can be said with confidence concerns the saint it honours and the setting in which small churches of this kind are found.

St. Vitus, in Croatian Sveti Vid, was a young martyr of the early fourth century, traditionally put to death during the persecutions of the Christians under the Roman emperor Diocletian, who also built his great palace at Split. His cult spread widely in the Middle Ages, and he is one of the best-known saints in Central and Southern Europe, associated with protection against illness, particularly nervous disorders, and with the protection of dancers and actors. His feast day, in mid-June, was celebrated in many Croatian parishes, and churches and chapels named after him are common along the Adriatic coast and on the islands, from small rural chapels to larger town churches. A dedication to this saint therefore suggests an old foundation, in many cases medieval.

Small churches of this type in the Split area are typically built of local limestone, with a simple rectangular plan, a pitched roof, a plain doorway and a small bell gable. The interior may contain a single altar and a few modest paintings or statues, and the atmosphere is calm and intimate rather than grand. Many such churches were built by local communities, fishing families or confraternities, and they continue to be used on feast days.

Split itself has a great deal to see within walking distance of any central location. Diocletian's Palace, with the cathedral and the bell tower of St. Domnius, the Cathedral Treasury, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments, the Riva waterfront, the Meštrović Gallery and the stairs up Marjan hill are all worth the time and make a full day on their own. If you are interested in small sacred places, ask at the tourist office for a list of open churches, since many are open only for services.

If you visit a church, dress modestly and keep quiet, and avoid entering during a service. Plan a short stop. The church suits travellers who like to find small, unassuming places, but it is not a highlight on a short visit to the city.